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VOTAGE

ROUND THE WORLD,

From 1806 to 1812,

IN WHICH

JAPAN, KAMSCHATKA, THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, AND THE
SANDWICH ISLANDS WERE VISITED,

s IKCLUL1M0

Jl Narrative of the Author's Shipwreck on the Island of

Sannach, and his subsequent wreck in the

Ship's long-boat ;

•WITH

AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE

SANDWICH ISLANDS,

AND

A vocabulary of their Language.

BY ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL.

Illustrated by a Chart.

Vao Wiukle, Wilev fc Co., Printer*.

• •»• •<

1X>1 i.

TIIE N2 r .' YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

383275B

A8TJR, LENOX AN*

HLDfcN FOUNDATIONS

B 1846 L

StvVurp Dfatricf #/ IfmYnk, su

BE IT REMEMBERED, tbtt on the twenty-seventh day of November, in
the forty-first year of the Independence of the United States of Ameri-
ca, Aichibald Campbell, of the said district, hath deposited m this office
the title of a book, the right whereof he claims aa author and proprietor, in
the words and figures following, to wit:

•• A Voyage round the World, from 1806 to 1812, in wMehJapaa, lamsefcat-
ka, the Aleutian islands, and the Sandwich Islands, were visited, including
a Narrative of the Author's Shipwreck on the Island of Smtneek, and his
subsequent wreck in the ship's long-boat; with an account of the present
state of the Sandwich Islands, and a vocabulary of their language. By Ai-
chibald Campbell. Illustrated by a Chart,

In coffroftMiTT to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled,
" An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps,
charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the
times therein mentioned ;" and also, to an act entitled, " An act, supplemen-
tary to an act, entitled, an act for the encouragement of learning, by
44 securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprie-
*« tors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned, and extending the
44 benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical
••■ and other prints."

THERON RUDD.
Clerk of the Southern District of New- York.

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England—Voyage to China— Transac-
tions at Canton—Author enters on board an American

ship— Passage to Kamschatka— Touches at Japi
Transactions there— Arrives at the harbour of St. Pe-
ter and St. Paul— Some account of the Russian settle-
ment at that place 13

CHAPTER II.

Departure from Kamschatka— Shipwrecked upon a reef
of rocks, on the northwest coast of America — Author,
with the rest of the crew, save themselves in ^ie long-
boat—Are drifted upon an Island — Transactions upon
v the island— Prepare to build a vessel. 28

CHAPTER III.

V. Arrival of a party of Natives, and of the Russian Cora-

^ mandant of Oonalaska, who determines to send to

•"N Kodiak for assistance— Long-boat prepared for the

voyage — Some account of Sannack, or Halibut

Island. 37

CHAPTER IV,

Sail from Sannack in the long-boat — Touch at the Island
of Ungar — Distressing state of the settlement there —
Sail front thence— Anchor at the village of Sahutktim
—Departure from it— Boat nearly embayed on the north
coast of Kodiak — Arrival at Alexandria — Transactions
there— -Boat fitted out to return to Sannack. 45

iv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Alexandria— Boat forced into a bay by
the weather, and hauled on shore— Obliged, by want of
provisions, to leave the bay— iA snow storm— The boat
springs a leak — Is run on shore, and goes to pieces upon
the rocks— A hut discovered, in which the crew pass
the night. 56

CHAPTER VI.

A party quit the hut in search of a settlement — Author's
feet frost-bitten — Progress of the party interrupted by a
mountain— Return towards the hut, till prevented by the
tide from passing a reef of rocks— Pass the night in a
valley — Next morning set off at low water — Author falls
behind, and, in attempting to climb over a rock, gets
his hands frost-bitten— Critical situation— Reaches the
hut — Two Russians reach a settlement by the moun-
tains, and send relief— Some account of Karlouski —
Voyage to Alexandria. 61

CHAPTER VII.

Author parried to hospital — Both his feet amputated—
Account of the party left at Sannack— Employed in
teaching native children English — Accdunt of Kodiak
—Natives— Dress— Canoes— Superstition — Food— Au-
thor sails in. the ship Neva for the Sandwich Islands. 69

CHAPTER VIII.

Voyage to Sandwich Islands— Make Owhyhee— Touch at
Mowee — Proceed to Wahoo — Tamaahmaah and other
Chiefs come on board — Author resides three months
with the King — Account of his mode of life — Removes
to the house of Isaac Davis-— Account of him— Death
of Terremytee, the King's brother, and transactions that
took place on that occasion — Remai kable water-spout
— Author receives a grant of land from the King, to
whicH he removes — Residence there — Arrival of the
ship Duke of Portland — Anecdotes of the king— Depar-
ture from the Sandwich Islands. 82

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Description of Wahoo— Extent — Whyteete bay— Account
of Tamaahmaah's navy— Town and harbour of Hana-
roora— Bass's harbour— Wymumme* or Pearl-river—
State of cultivation— Breed of cattle— Account of the
white people resident on the island. 105

CHAPTER X.

Account of the natives— Personal appearance — Ranks-
Power of the king —Priests— Capital punishments-
Mode of detecting theft— Religious belief— Places of
worship and ceremonies— Macaheite — Houses — Food
— Ava — Spirits distilled from the tee-root — State of
the women — Marriages— Dress— Manufactures — Nets
and lines — Modes of fishing— Trade — Price of provi-
sions—Amusements—Funeral rites— Military— Pro-
gress in civilization — Account of Tamaahmaah and
family. 117

CHAPTER XL

Departure from Wahoo— Pass Otaheite— Double Cape
Horn — Arrival at Rio Janeiro— Transactions there, du-
ring a residence of nearly two years— Voyage home. 15&

APPENDIX, No. I.

A vocabulary of the language of the Sandwich Islands.

159

APPENDED, No. IL

Statement of the Case of Archibald Campbell, by Dr.
Nordgoorst, in the service of the Russian American
Company. 181

APPENDIX, No. III.

Historical Account of the Sandwich Island* t&

APPENDIX, No- IV.

Nrtes.

PREFACE.

A perusal of the voyages of discovery, which shed so
much lustre on the reign of George III. naturally excites
a strong desire to learn what effects have been produced
among the nations whose existence they have introduced
to our notice.

That the interests of science and commerce have been
greatly promoted by these voyages, cannot be doubted ;
but it may be questioned whether the result has been
equally beneficial to the natives of the newly discovered
countries ; and, as the editor 4 ' of Cook's last voyage justly
remarks,' " it would afford exquisite pleasure to eveiy be-
nevolent mind, to be instructed in facts which might
" enable us without hesitation to answer in the affirma-
m tive."

The solution of this momentous question can only be ob-
tained from the accounts of subsequent visiters ; and the
following narrative is submitted to the Public, as a contri-
bution to the evidence required for that purpose. It was
drawn up partly from the papers, f but chiefly from the
recital of the author ; and the editor has adhered as closely
as the nature of the case would permit to the language in
which they were originally related/ The intervention of
a third person between the traveller and the reader, i&an
evil which ought always, if possible, to be avoided ; but
in the present instance, some literary assistance was ab-
solutely necessary ; and the editor conceives he shall best

* Dr. Douglai, Bishop of Salisbury.

f For aome account of these papers, see Note A.

Vili PREFACE.

have executed the task he has imposed upon himself, by
stating, with strict fidelity, and in the simplest language,
the facts as they were related to him.

A short account of the life of the narrator will enable
the reader to judge of the necessity of such assistance, as
well as of his qualifications to relate the incidents of his
voyage.

Archibald Campbell was born at Wyndford, near
Glasgow, on the 19th of July, 1787. His father, who was
a soldier in the 45th regiment, died at St. Lucia, upon
which his mother removed to Paisley, her native place*
when her son was about four years of age. He there re-
ceived the common rudiments of education, and at the
age of ten was bound apprentice to a weaver. Before the
term of his apprenticeship had expired, however, a strong
desire to visit remote countries induced him to go to sea ;
and in the year 180Q, he entered as apprentice on board
the ship Isabella, of Port-Glasgow, commanded by Mr*
Hugh Paterson. In this vessel he made three voyages to
the West Indies. He afterwards served about a twelve-
month in a coaster ; and, in 1804, again sailed for the West
Indies, in the sloop Robina, belonging to the same port.

At Madeira he was pressed on board the Diana frigate,
aud remained in that ship till her arrival at Portsmouth
in 1806. He there found means to make his escape, and
entered as seaman on board the Thames Indiaman.

The history of the six most eventful years of his life
will be found in the following pages. He returned to his-
native countiy, in April, 18 12, having lost both his feet ; and
from the unskilful manner in which amputation has been
performed, the wounds have never healed.

A gentleman in Rio Janeiro, of the name of Lawrie,
had furnished him with letters to his father in Edinburgh*
by whose interest he obtained admission into the Infirmary
in that city ; but after remaining there nearly four months,
he was dismissed a& incurable.

Mr. Lawrie, senior, presented him with a barrel organ ;

PREFAC*. fX

and he contrived to earn a miserable pittance, by crawl-
ing about the streets of Edinburgh and Leith, grinding
music, and selling a metrical history of his adventures.

Being ambitious, however, of performing on a more dig-
nified instrument, he has since learned to play on the vi-
olin ; and he finds employment on board the steam* boats
that ply upon the river Clyde, by playing for the amuse-
ment ©f the steerage passengers.

In one of these vessels his appearance attracted the

notice of the editor ; and the answers he gave to some

questions excited so much curiosity, that he took him home

. with the intention *of making a few memoranda of his

story for his own information.

The .modest and intelligent manner in which it was told ;
the interesting nature of the incidents, and the curious in-
formation it contained, on the subjects to which the atten-
tion of the editor had been much directed, created a strong ■
interest on behalf of the narrator ; and the hope that an
account of his voyage might be of service to an unfortunate
and deserving man, and not unacceptable to those who
take pleasure- in contemplating the progress. of mankind
in the arts of civilization, gave rise to the present publi-
cation.

In the execution of his task, simplicity and perspicuity
are all that the editor has aimed at. The ornaments of
style, which are generally misplaced in such relations,
would have been peculiarly incongruous in the mouth of
a common sailor. In those parts of the work which re-
late to places already well known, the narrative is entirely
confined to the personal adventures of the author ; and
had the editor been aware that so much had been recently
written regarding Kamschatka and the Aleutian islands
by the Russian navigators, the description of those places
would have been either altogether omitted, or much
more condensed ; but, in fact, he had no opportunity of
seeing their voyages till the work was sent to the press,
and it was not then considered necessary to make any
alteration in the text.

The importance of the subject will account for the dis-
proportion of that part which relates to the Sandwich
islands to the rest of the work. From the advantages
they owe to their situation, placed midway between the
continents of Asia and America ; from the fertility of the
soil, and the natural talents and industry of the natives,
they promise to become by far the most important of the
recently discovered islands* in the Pacific Ocean. *

Scarcely thirty years have elapsed from the period of
their discovery, yet how wonderful the change.f Their
king is surrounded by v workmen of every description, na-
tive and European ; his guards are ^regularly trained to
the use of fire-arms ; and he possesses a navy 6f nearly
sixty sail of decked vessels, built upon the islands ; whilst
almost every ship which navigates the Pacific, finds shel-
ter, provisions, or trade, in his harbours.

In Tamaahmaah these islanders possess one of those
remarkable characters, who, like Alfred or Peter the
Great, seem destined to hasten the progress of civilization.
He is known in this country from the accounts of Turn-
bull, Lisianski, and Langsdorf ; but as none of these navi-
gators ever saw that chief, their accounts are consequent-
ly very imperfect ; the length of time, however, during
which our author remained hi his family, afforded him op-
portunities of observation not enjoyed by those of ,higher
qualifications, and in some measure compensate for the
unavoidable defects of his education.

* The concluding sentence in Captain Cook's journal affords a
striking proof of the high value he attached to " a discovery,
which, though the last, seemed in many respects the most impor-
tant of any that had hitherto been made by Europeans through-
out the extent of the Pacific Ocean.' 1

f A short historical account of the revolutions that have taken
place in the Sandwich islands, from their discovery in 1779 till
the arrival of the author in 1809, collected from the Voyages of
Cook, Meares, Portlocke, Vancouver, Broughton, Turnbull, and
Lisianski, will be found in the Appendix, No. III.

PREFACB. xi

Although no new discoveries, strictly speaking* are re-
corded, the work will not be found altogether destitute of
useful nautical information ; the account of the reef to the
southwest of Halibut Island, upon which the ship was
wrecked, and the numerous rocks that fie near the coast
of Aliaski, will show what ought to be avoided; and in
the account of the south coast of Wahoo, will be found a
description of the only harbours in the Sandwich islands.

From the humble situation held by the author, a distrust
may be entertained of his qualifications to relate the facts
which fell under his notice ; but few in the same ranks of
life are- possessed of more intelligence or information ;
with the advantages common to his countrymen, he seems
to have neglected no means of improvement It will be
seen that at the age of nineteen he was appointed a petty
officer, and had he not been incapacitated by his misfor-
tune, it may be presumed, that he would soon have at-
tained a higher rank.

The editor has to claim indulgence on his own account.
His motives for undertaking the work, and the principles
upon which it has been executed, have been already sta-
ted ; the work is published for the benefit of the poor fel-
low who is the subject of it, nor would it ever have met
the public eye had there been any chance that the task
would have been undertaken by another hand. But to
rescue much of what is true and extraordinary from the
oblivion to which the obscure condition and limited powers
of the narrator would have condemned it, appeared to
him well deserving of the labour which he had bestowed.
The best apology for the appearance of the work itself
will be found in the words of a celebrated periodical pub-
lication :* " It is obvious that the discovery of new tribes,
** and the first account of manners formerly unknown,

are by no means more interesting than the subsequent

history of those tribes, and the changes which rapidly
'* take place in their manners. The greatest obligations,

• Edinburgh Review, Vol. IX. p. 332.

PREFACE.

44 therefore, are conferred on us by those adventurous per-
44 sons who, having visited these islands of late years, give
44 such statements of what they saw, as enable us to trace
the progress of society in one of its earliest stages, and
to estimate the effects produced by the sudden revolu-
44 tion in their circumstances which the natives have ex-
-** perienced from their intercourse with Europeans."

C»

JAMES SMITH.

JordanhxLU May, 1816.

VOYAGE

ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER L

Departure from England— Voyage to China— Transac-
tions at Canton— Author enters on board an American
ship— Passage to Kamschatka— Touches at Japan-
Transactions there— Arrives at the harbour of St. Peter
and St. Paul—- Some account of the Russian settlement
• at that place.

Early in May, 1 806, I entered as seaman
on board the Thames Indiaman, Matthew
Riches, Esquire, commander, on a voyage to
China.

We sailed on the 14th of that month from
Motherbank, in company with the Arniston,
Royal Charlotte, Glatton, Marquis of Ely,
Marquis of Wellesley, Monarch, Cirencester,
and Neptune, Indiamen, under convoy of
the Lion 64, and Medusa frigate ; we were
also accompanied by a fleet of transports,
with troops, destined for the expedition to
Buenos Ayres.

14 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

In our voyage to the Cape of Good Hope,
no incident occurred worthy of being record-
ed, not even the ordinary ceremonies upon
crossing the line. We had a detachment of
the 30th Regiment on board, the command-
ing officer of which* did not choose that the
men should undergo the ducking usual upon
that occasion. About this time I was ap-
pointed sail-maker's mate.

We arrived at the Cape on the 7th of
August, and remained there fifteen days.

We sailed from thence on the 22d ; and
on the day after our departure encountered
a severe gale of wind. It came pn so sud-
denly that we had only time to take in our
studding sails; all the others, except the fore
and foretop-gallant sails, were blown out of
the bolt ropes; the ship was running before
the wind, and broached to several times;
fortunately, however, we suffered no other
damage than the loss of the sails. We ex-
perienced two other gales whilst in the In-
dian seas, but, being better prepared, met
with no material accident

On the 12th of September we saw the
island of St. Paul, and arrived at Pulo Pe-
nang, or Prince of Wales' Island, about the
middle of October.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 15

We proceeded on our voyage for China
on the 24th of November^ and anchored at
Wampoa on the 18th of January, 1807.

Having remained there nearly six weeks,
and taken in about half of our cargo, an un-
fortunate dispute took place between the
crew of the Neptune and some Chinese, ia
which one of the latter lost his lifg. In con-
sequence of this, the government insisted
/that a man &bouI4 be given up injhis place,
and stopped the loading of the ships to ej>
&rce compliance with .this demand, threat-
ening, at the same time, to prevent their de-
parture by choking up the second bar.* As
a measure of precaution the ships dropped
down the river below the bar, and a boat
was despatched to Canton, to wait the orders
' of the commodore.

I was sent in the cutter on this service;
and during the time of our stay in that city,
the captain pf the American ship Arthur,
hound to Rhode-Island, endeavoured to in-
duce me to. quit the ship I belonged to, by
offering high wages and a bounty of twenty
dollars ; I, however, declined his proposals.
Afterwards, when I was in company with a
comrade of the name of Allen, we were met

* For an account of the dispute, see Appendix No. IV.
Note B*

16 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

by another American captain, who also tried
. to persuade us, by offering still higher wa-
ges; we resisted his offers, till he informed
us that his ship was bound for the South
Seas and the northwest coast of America.

It had always been my ambition to- visit
those distant parts of the world, and the
opportunity that now presented itself was
too tempting to be resisted. We agreed to
his terms*; and as his ship lay at Wampoa,
he concealed us in the American factory till
an opportunity of prpceeding thither should
occur.

Whilst at this place, we very narrowly
escaped detection. Being in want of pro-
visions, we sent out a Chinese to buy soma
bread, and gave him a dollar stamped with
Captain Riches's initials. Iqstead of ful-
filling his commission, he took the dollar
to the captain, and brought him to the fac*
tory. When we saw them approach, we
made our escape from a window to the top
of an adjoining house, and ran along the
roofs, till we reached a warehouse, which
we asked pernfission to pass through ; this
th£ owner refusing, I went out on a beam
that crossed the street, and dropped. on the
ground, . being a fall of about eighteen feet.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 17

When the Chinese observed this, he allow-
ed my comrade to pass through the house.
I was a good (deal stunned with the fall, but
soon recovered myself. We then got to
the river side, where we hired a san-pan,
or small, boat, to take us to Wampoa, and
reached the ship with no other interruption.

She was called the Eclipse, and belong-
ed to Boston ; a new ship, on her first voy-
age, commanded by Captain Joseph 0*Keam
She was chartered by the Russian American
Company for their settlements at K&ms-
chatka»and the northwest coast of America,
with a cargo of nankeens, tea, silks, sugar,
rice, and other articles, the produce of China*
The number of the crew, including officers,
amoved to twenty-eight, four or five of
which were procured from the Indiamed.
There was also a Russian supercargo.

At Captain Q'Kean'-s desire I changed'
my name, which I entered on the ship's
books as Archibald Macbride^

Having completed our cargo, tfie ship
sailed on her voyage upon the 8th of May-
When opposite to Macao, we saw the fa-
diari fleet getting underway; the Captain,,
fearing that the man-of-war might board!
us, and take the men belonging to the India-

*2.

1ft VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

ships, put back, and remained within the
Bocca Tygris till they were out of sight

On the 6th of June we descried the coast
of Japan, and ran along shore till we reached
the bay of Nangasaki.

We stood into the bay undei\ Russian
colours, and were met by an immense fleet
of boats, who took possession of the ship,
and towed her to the anchorage. When
about half-way. up the bay, the Dutch am-
bassador came off. He could speak Eng-
lish; and finding we were Americans, ad-
vised us to haul down the colours, in£>rm£ng
us, that the natives were much exasperated
at some outrages lately committed by the
Russians upon their islands. We found this
to be so much the case, that we defied it
prudent to keep the supercargo out of sight
during the whole of our stay.*

When the ship! was moored, eight guard-
boats were anchored round us, within pis-
tol-shot, and no person allowed ta lar^d or

* It appears from Dr. Langsdarf's Voyage, that the'
amour firofire of the Russian ambassador, Von Resanoff,
was so much mortified by his reception at Japan, that he
despatched in October, 1806, an expedition against the
most southern of the Kuril© islands, where the Japanese
have settlements. A second expedition was undertaken
in May, X807*— Fid* Langtdorf, Vol. IL ft. 29&

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1S>

hold any communication with the shore;
tha muskets were taken out of the arm*
chest, and our gunpowder demanded ; six or
eight kegs were given up, with the assurance
that it was all we had.

Seeing so many boats come off, a large
assortment of articles of trade was brought
on deck, but none of the people would make
any purchase. They told us they had plen-
ty of every thing we had to ofler.

When the Captain was asked what
brought him 'to Japan, he replied, want of
water and fresh provisions ; and ordered se-
veral butts in the hold to be started and
hoisted on deck empty. Next day a plen-
tiful supply was sent off, in small boats fill-
ed with water, and in tubs, which we were
obliged to empty on deck, stopping the
scuppers, and allowing it to run off at night.
We were also abundantly supplied with fresh
fish, hogs, and vegetables; the whole of
which was furnished gratis.

On the thirds day of our stay, the Cap-
tain, finding nothing was to be gained by re-
maining, got u&der way* The arms and
ammunition were immediately restored, and
the ship was towed about five miles out of
the bay, by nearly a hundred boats j oi^part-

20 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

ing, the crews cheered us, waiving their hats
and hands.

The town of Nangasaki was concealed by
an island ; but from the view we had of the
land, it seemed to be in a state of high cul-
tivation, and very populous. The natives
have the appearance and complexion of the
Chinese, but are tallerin stature.

Their boats, which were open, with small
covered cabins abaft, were mounted with
guns, about the size of our largest swivels.
Instead of being rowed they were sculled;
Ihe oars on each side never being lifted out
of the water. In each of them were two
men, apparently officers, dressed in loose
frocks, or gowns, with long hanging sleeves.
These were armed with matchlocks, and had
a sabre hanging at each side.
• After leaving Nangasaki, we navigated
the strait which separates the principal
island of Japan from. others that lie to the
north ; in several places it is not above five
miles broad. On each sidq the country is
beautiful, abounding with cultivated fields,
woods, villages, and single houses. Fre-
quently, when near the coast, we observed
the inhabitants come down to the sho&, and
wake signals, as if to invite us to land; but,

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 21

after the reception we had already experi-
enced, the Captain did not. choose to have
any further communication with the Ja-
panese.*

At one time, in a thick fog, we were
alarmed with the noise of breakers, apparent-
ly very near. Upon sounding we found
twenty fathoms, sandy bottom, and immedi-
ately let go the anchor. When the haze
cleared away, we found ourselves close to
a remarkable island, or rock, about the size
and the height of the craig of Ailsea, in the
Frith of Clyde. An archway passed com-
pletely through it; and into this the sea
rushed with that tremendous noise which had

occasioned our late alarm. *

» *

- In about a week we were clear of the
strait, and proceeded on our voyage.

The 4th of July, being the anniversary of
American independence, was celebrated by
a salute, One of the guns having missed fire,

* Those friendly invitations seem to he somewhat in-
consistent with the inhospitable character of the Japanese.
It is most likely, howerer, that the author is mistaken in
the nature of the digitals they made, which were more
probably those of reproach than kindness, similar to those
Captain Saris was assailed with-;-'* Core, core cocori
ware,"?— "you Coreans, with false hearts."

Vid. Quarterly Revkiv> Vol. IV. fi. 379.

•

22 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the captain took the powder-horn to priq&e
it ; in doing which some fire in the gun kin*
died the powder and exploded the ho£n. By
this accident his hand was dreadfully scorch-
ed and lacerated.

Upon the 6th we descried the two lofty
mountains of St Peter and St Paul, in Earn*
schatka.

Owing to foggy weather, it was two days
before we discovered the entrance of Aw&fc*
ska bay. We were within the heads on the
8th, and were met by a Russian boat, o»
board of which was Mr. Meznikoff, commis-
sioner of the store, who piloted us into the
harbour of Petropaulouska, or St Peter and
St Paul. The ship having been seen off the
coast, intelligence had been given of our arri-
val by people stationed for the purpose at a
light-house on the north side of the entrance.

Awatska bay is a spacious basin, 25 or 30
miles in circumference ; any 'part of it would
afford safe anchorage, but it has "three very
fine harbotfrs. That of St Peter and St.
Paul, where we lay, is sheltered from every
wind by a projecting wood^ point; but, ow-
ing to the great height of the mountains, is
subject to heavy squalls.

The entrance to the bay is not above a

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. »

mile and a half wide, and may be known by
several remarkable rocks on the starboard
hand going in, somewhat like the needles at
the Isle of Wight.

We remained at St- Peter and St. Paul
thirty-three days, and discharged nearly one-
third of our cargo.

The town, although the principal sea-port
of the Peninsula of Kamschatka, is nothing
more than a miserable village, containing 300
or 400 inhabitants, of whom about two-thirds
are Russians and the remainder natives. It
is situated on an eminence above the harbour,
and, with the exception of the governor's
house, consists of huts of one story high, built
of logs, and covered with thatch. In a few
of them the windows are glazed . with talc,
but more generally the intestine of the seal
supplies the place of glass.

The huts of the natives lie below the town
towards the shore. They are almost wholly
under* ground, nothing but the roof being
seen, which is long and rounded at the top,,
resembling a vessel with the bottom upwards*

On a rising ground on the north side ot
the harbour, near the governor's house, stands
an obelisk, erected to the memory of Cap*
ain Gierke, the coadjutor t)f Captain Cook,

24 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

who died at sea, and was buried at this place.
The monument is about sixteen or eighteen
feet high 9 built of hewn stone, with a ship
on the top ; there, were inscriptions on each
side, which were much defaced by the wea-
ther, and, owing to the rail which surrounded
the place, we could not get near enough to as-
certain in what language they were written.*

The natives are. stout made, round-faced,
with a yellowish complexion. The men are
dressed in skin frocks; the women in a. si-
milar dress made of nankeen. •

The country round is perfectly barren,
and no cultivation of any kind is to be seen,
except one or two gardens near the town. •

They have a few horses and horned cat-
tle ; but these are so scarce, that the fresh
beef we required was brought from Bolt-
cheresk, a distance of seventy miles.

On the right hand entrance of the bay,
and round *by the foot of the mountain* the
country is covered with wood, chiefly pines*

The town and its neighbourhood are in-
fested with an immense number of the dogs

* The inscriptions will be found in Captain Kruaear
stern's Voyage. .The Monument was erected by the on>
cers of his ship, the Nadeshda, near the tree where Cap-
tain Clerke was buried.

ErutetiBtern, Vol. II.fi. 203.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. *5

rtsedfor sledges in witoter. At this season,
they are allowed to go at large and find food
for themselves. They live almost entirely
upon fish, which they obtain either by spring-
ing upon them as they lie in the water, or
pieking.them up dead along the shore. In
wiiifer, .they are fed upon dried fish, which
are cured in large open sheds, erected for
that purpose- on the shore, and which, it
would appear, they prefer to any other food.
Our sailors, by way of amusement, often pur-
loihed a few to give to the dogs ; in conse-
quence of which kindness, thousands of these
hungry creatures watched the landing of our
boat, and flocked after us, to the great an-
noyance of the inhabitants. This practice
became at last so troublesome, that the Rus-
sians insisted on our putting an end to it.
Their howling every morning at day-break,
was so intolerable, as to awaken us even on
"board the ship.

Boltcheresk, the capital of Kamschatka,
is about seventy miles from St. Peter and
St. Paul. The communication in the winter
season is by sledges drawn by dogs over
the snow ; in summer the intercourse is car-
ried on by the river Awatska, which being
income places extremely shallow, boats of

. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

a particular construction are made use of.
They are formed of light frames of wood,
covered with tarpaulin, and are so flat in the
bottom that they do not draw above six
inches water ; they are extremely light, and
can easily be carried over thfe rapids.

The two remarkable mountains, St. Peter
and St. Paul, which give name to the place,
lie about thirty miles to the north. One of
them is a volcano ; and when we could see
the top, which was seldom free from clouds,
it was constantly smoking, and at night
sparks were frequently^ be seen. An erup-
tion took place some time before our arrival,
by which the whole town was covered with
ashes.

There were no vessels at this place during
our stay, except the wreck of a ship which
had sunk in the harbour ; the sails having
been loosed for the purpose of drying, a sud-
den squall laid her on her beam-ends, when
she filled and went down.* As the upper
works were above the surface at low water*
it appeared to us that she might have been

* It appears from Captain Krasenstern't voyage, that
this was the Slawa Rossii, the ship commanded by Cap-
tain Billing, and afterwards by Admiral Sarytscheff.

Xru9en8tern f Vol. II. page 2$.

VOYAGE BOUND THE WORLD. 27

fraised without much difficulty ; but it seems
they did not intend to make the attempt, for
her cordage and anchors were put on board
our vessel.

Whilst we remained here we were abun-
dantly supplied with the finest salmon, and
fish of all descriptions.

Having delivered the part of our cargo
which was to be left at this place, we sailed
on the "8th of August for the settlements on
the Aleutian Islands.

28 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER If.

Departure from Kamschatka — Shipwrecked on' a reef of
rocks, on the northwest coast of America— Author,
with the rest of the crew, save themselves by die long-
boat—Are drifted on an Island— Transactions upoa
the island — Prepare to build a vessel.

We left Kamschatka on the 8th of August,
and. proceeded on our voyage to the north-
West coast of America. Nothing material
occurred till the 10th of September, On
the morning of that day it blew hard from
the south, and the ship was reduced to close-,
reefed topsails ; about three in the afternoon,
the gale increased to such a degree that it
became necessary to take in the fore and
mizen topsails. Whilst the men were on the
yards, they discovered land off the lee bow,
distant about five or six leagues; we con-
jectured it to be that part of the continent
called Aliaska; the ship's course was im-
mediately altered from n. e. to e., and the
weather proving more moderate in the eve-
ning, we stood on, close hauled, but did not
set more sail. About ten at night, the alarm
was given that there were breakers ahead,
and on the lee bow. Mr. Brinkman, the chief

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 29

mate, who had the charge of the watch, im-
mediately went to the mizen topmast head,
and observing there was room to wear the
ship, hastened below to report the circum-
stance to the captain. When he returned
upon deck, he instantly went to the wheel
and ordered us to our stations, with the in-
tention of wearing ; but the captain, who
followed him, was of a different opinion ; he
said what we saw was only white water, and
not breakers; that there wa& no danger, and
ordered us to stand on our course. He had
scarcely given this order before the ship
plunged, and. struck with such violence as
to knock away the forefoot, and the watch
below were driven from their hammocks
against the deck. The sea running very
high, she beat so hard that in a few- mi-
nutes the rudder was unshipped, and the
steiH-post forced up through the poop ; as
shie still had. way upon her, she shot over the
reef into . deep water: upon sounding we
found seventeen fathoms. It was immediate-
ly determined to let go the anchor, and re-
main by the ship as long as she would swim.
In case she went down, we hoped to save
ourlives by the long-boat, which was, accord-
ingly cleared and hoisted.out, that she might

SO VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

be ready ; seven of the guns were at the
same time thrown overboard, in order to
keep her above water until daylight. The
carpenter attempted to sound the well, but
owing to some obstacle could not get down
the sounding rod. I was sent below with
him to bore a hole beside the pump through
the lower deck ; but on taking off the after
hatch, we found the water as high as the
shipping boards.

Early on the morning of the 11th, to
our great joy, we saw land to the leeward
of us, distant about three or four leagues.
It was immediately determined to watch the
lull, slip the cable, and cast the ship's head
in shore, and steer her for it with the jib and
fore-topsail. • After she was under way,
the captain ordered that any of the crew
that could not swim should go into the
long-boat astern, and be ready as soon
ad she struck to come along side for the
rest, as he expected that she would then go
to pieces. As soon as she struck, all hands
came into the boat, and went for the shore,

tiie captain taking his quadrant, until the tide
should ebb, when we expected she would be
nearly dry. We landed between eleven and
iwelve o'clock in the forenoon.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. at

' The land upon which we were thrown
presented a most dreary appearance ; it was
an extensive plaip, intersected by pools of
fresh water, stretching about five miles from
the sea, and terminated by two mountains*
The ground was covered with heath and
moss ; not a tree nor a bush could be seen,
neither did we observe the least trace of hu-
man habitations. As the land afforded us
no sustenance, we turned our attention to the
sea, and when the tide ebbed found some
large mussels* Having satisfied our hunger
with some raw muscles, we prepared to ga
off to the ship ; but on our way off we had
the mortfication to see her fall over on her
beam ends. When we reached the ship we
found that we could do nothing. wjth her, and
were preparing to leave her, when we dis-
covered in the bottom of the long-boat
the carpenter's axe ; we then cut the parrel „
and gear of the main topsail yard, and let
it drive dear of the wreck, while we went to
cut away the topmasts, and then left her for
that day* On our way ashore we found the
mam topsail yard, and took it in tow, and
landed again about six o'clock in the evening.
The approach of night rendering some shel-
ter necessary, we made a sort of tent with

S2 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD;

a sail, and lay down on the moss, cold and-
wet, and spent a most uncomfortable night.

Next morning, the 12th, we set off along
shore in search of any thing that might have
driven from- the ship, and found, in a bay, at
no great distance from our tent, a barrel of
rosin, the arm chest, with one or two smalt
carbines, some swan-shot, .and, what was of
greater consequence to us, several calking
irons and mallets ; on finding these we went
to the ship, but the sea was so high we
could not come near her, and we returned to
our tent.

On the 13th, 14th, and 1 5th, we wera
employed in repairing the boat, which had
begun to get very leaky; having picked
some oakum, -we calked the seams as well
as we could. Over the places where thi»
was insufficient, we nailed pieces of boards,
and calked round the edges* Although
we could not pay the seams, having nothing
to melt our rosin in, we succeeded in making*
her tolerably tight.

On the 16th several pieces of wreck and'
some sails were secured r ; this- day was chief*
ly employed in preparations for going off to
the wreck. We formed a grappling iron by
lashing four bolts together, and bending them;

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 33

and made a line out of the rigging that came
ashore with the spars ; this proved of great
service in fishing up articles from the wreck.
Every thing being reftdy, and the 17th prov-
ing fine, we set off at day-break, and, taking
the carpenter's axe with us, we cut a large
hole in her side, just before the main chan-
nels. With the grappling irons we hooked
several sails, and a number of other articles,
such as boxes of silks and nankeens, and
made three different trips to the wreck this
day.

On the 18th we were busy making a lar-
ger tent with the sails we had got. We set up
two small spars at each end, and laid a stud-
ing-sail boom across the tops of them ; over
this we spread a topsail, hung smaller sails
at the ends, and placed planks round the bot-
tom, to prevent them from being blown up by
the wind. With the soft moss of the island for
beds, and planks to sit upon, we now found
ourselves pretty comfortable in every res-
pect but one : All our attempts to kindle a
fire proved unavailing, and we were obliged
to eat our victuals raw. Observing a flight
of large birds, resembling ravens, carrying
something in their talons, we watched where
they alighted, and goitfg to the spot, found

3* VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLR

several parcels of pork and beef which they
had picked up, the barrels being staved by
the rocks. In this 'manner, we procured
about a dozen of pieeesi We again went
off to the wreck in the afternoon, to see
what we could get on shore, as it had every
appearance o£p;gale of wind, and managed
to get three o£ 6ur chests out of the vessel
before dark ; and amongst them mine* It
contained only one shirt and my bible, which
I had put into one of those squares, common
in sailor's chests, for holding case-bottles,
and in which it was firmly fixed, in conse-
quence of having swelled with the water.
We also secured, this day, a barrel of fine bis-
cuit ; it was soaked with salt water, but was,
nevertheless, a most acceptable addition to
our store. In the night, bet ween the 18th and
19th, it blew so hard from the south, that the
ship went to pieces before morning. At day-
break, we discovered on a small isle, sepa-
rated from the land by a channel which was
dry at low water, the fore part of the ship,
which had driven high up on the beach. Had
we been able to have moved it to a better
situation, it would have made an excellent
hut; but, this was beyond our strength. It
was broken up, and gradually removed,

VOYAGE ROUND THB WORLD. 86

When we could afford time. Some more
fragments of the wreck, consisting of kees
and planks, came on shore this day. We
also recovered a few packages of nankeens
aftd chests of tea, which we spread on the
tooss to dry.

Our horizon to the south being interrupted
by the reef, the captain and mate went out in
the long-boat to determine the latitude by &
Meridian altitude of the sun. The result of the
observations gave 54 deg. 52 min. north, as
the latitude of the south side of the island.*

We made a number of trips to the wreck
m the course of the ten following days, and
saved a considerable part of the cargo, con-
sisting of chests of tea, packages of nankeens,
and bags of rice* The last time we went off
to the wreck before the arrival of the Indians
the wind was off shore, and began to blow
so fresh that we were obliged to desist from
our labours* After having secured a few

* This observation, made without the assistance of an
ephemeris, or tables of declination, can only be consider-
ed as an approximation. It however proves that San-
sack and Halibut Island are the same, the latitude of that
island, as ascertained by Captain Cook, being 54 deg.
27 min. As the observation was made about the time of
the equinox, the correction for declination might be
estimated within a few minutes.

36 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLB.

more sails, some coil of cordage, and two
bales of silks, having only two oars and a
heavy boat to row, we reached the shore be-
fore dark, after a most fatiguing pull. By
this time so much of the wreck was recover-
ed that we determined to build a vessel large
enough to carry us to the Sandwich Islands,
where we were certain of meeting with an
American ship. Our principal attention was
now turned to that object, and we began our
preparations by collecting into one place,
planks and other pieces of wood suitable for
the purpose*

tOYAGE ROUND THE WORL&. 37

CHAPTER III.

Arrival of a party of Natives, and of the Russian Con*
* mandant of Oonalaska, who determines to send to Ko-
. diakfor assistance — Long-boat prepared for the voyage
—Some account of Sannack, or Halibut Island*

Our necessary occupations, and the un>-
promisiog appearance of the country, had
hitherto prevented us from leaving the neigh-
bourhood of our hut; but we had seen no*
thing that led us to imagine that the island
was inhabited. We were, however, visited
on the 28th by a party of natives, who had
traced the fragments of wreck along shore.

About mid-day we saw them approach
m three small skin-canoes, with one Indian
in each. One of them, who had a gold
medal about his neck, came forward, and ad-
dressed us in the Russian language. The
captain, who had made a former voyage to
these settlements, and understood a few
words of the language, contrived to make
our situation known to him. He immediate-
ly despatched one of his companions to a vil-
lage on the northern part of the island for
assistance, and the other to Oonalaska to

38 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

give information to the commandant of the
Russian settlements on that island.

The chief himself remained, and most
willingly gave us a share x>f his .provisions,
which consisted of a bladder of train-oil, and
a basket of berries, about the size of bilber-
ries, preserved in oil. These, to people in
any other situation, would scarcely have
been deemed an acquisition. Even we, who
had lived so long on raw muscles, found some
difficulty in reconciling ourselves to train-oil ;
but we thought the berries, which had been
cured with seal-oil, no small luxury. This
friendly Indian, who had hooks and lines,
went out in his canoe, and in a short time re-
turned with a few small fish. He then klh-
dled a fire in the following manner: he laid
a piece of soft wood upon the ground, and
took another Within his teeth; between these
he put an upright piece of a harder quality,
which he twirled rapidly around with a
thong of hide, as we would a drill ; the fric-
tion soon kindled the soft wood, and by plac-
ing it in dried grass, and blowing it, it burst
into a flame.

We lost tio time in broiling the fieh, and
enjoyed the first comfortable meal we had
since the shipwreck.

VOYAGE ROtf»D THE WORLD. 39

Next day about forty Indians, men and
women, came and encamped beside us;
they made huts for themselves, by setting
jop planks, leaning against each other at
the top, and throwing earth upon them, over
which they put a covering of grass.

They brought a supply of provisions, con-
sisting of berries, oil, blubber, and dried
salmon, and gave us a share of all they had
with the utmost liberality.

By the assistance of the Indians, who tow*
ad our boat with their canoes, we made two
more trips to- the wreck, and were success-
ful in saving a considerable quantity of the
cargo, as well as several articles of greater
use to us for our intended vessel ; such as
bolts of canvass, cordage, and other naval
stores, being part of the rigging of the ship
that was stranded in * the harbour of St.
Peter and St. Paul. In saving these ar-
ticles, the grappling-irons proved of the
greatest service ; for though the wreck lay
in about three fathoms, the water was so
elear, when the wind was southerly, that we
could distinctly see what lay at the bottom*
A considerable part of the ship still held to-
gether.

In about a week after this, Mr. Bander*

40 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the Russian commandant of Oonalaska, ar-
rived in a large skin-canoe, or baidare, with
twenty or thirty Indians, who also hutted
themselves beside us. The presence of so
many visiters formed a singular contrast to
the solitude in which we had hitherto lived.
Our tent was now in the centre of a busy
and populous village*

Some of our new visiters erected huts,
whilst others contented themselves with
sleeping under their baidare, which they
placed bottom up, and raised by supports
from the ground on the lee side.

We were now in no want of provisions.
In addition to what the Indians brought
with them, they procured us a plentiful sup-
ply of fish and fowl, particularly geese, in
which the island abounded ; these they shot
with their rifles, in the use of which they are
very expert.

These rifles are no wider in the bore than
our own, but the metal is extremely thick,
particularly at the muzzle. They load them
almost full of powder, over which they force
a piece of lead, three or four inches long,
with a mallet ; this comes out like an arrow.
The piece is rested upon two supports, which
fold out, and are stuck in the ground. I

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 41

have seen them fire at the geese, which usu-
ally sat in rows, and kill several at one shot;

Mr. Bander took possession of the ship's
cargo. Under his directions we went off to
her several times, in company with the In-
dians, and brought away a considerable
quantity of the nankeens and cloth; but were
not successful in getting provisions, for we
secured nothing except a few casks of da-
maged bread, and half a puncheon of rum.

Our chief attention was now turned to-
wards our vessel* and we had a reasonable
prospect of completing her by the aid of our
visiters.

From Oonalaska we procured twelve In-
dians who could use the axe, and Mr. Ban-
der promised us the assistance of Russian
carpenters from Kodiak. To obtain which,
as well as to report the loss of the ship to
the governor of the Russian settlements, the
long-boat was fitted out for a voyage to Ko-
diak. About the 6th ,of November the ne-
cessary repairs were begun.

The seams were payed with a composi-
tion of the rosin that had been saved from
*the wreck, and train 'oil, boiled to a consis*
tence in the kettles of the Indians. A kind

of spar deck was formed, by laying the

4ft VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

boards of the hat-boxes over the thwarts }
and upon these we nailed a tarpaulin ; a
hatchway was left at the stern, by which we
got below, and in which the man at the helm
could stand. We laid a small platfornLon
the bottom, and covered it with skins ; this
formed a berth into which we could creep,
but it was too low to allow us to sit upright
Out of the ship's spanker I made a suit o{
sails. She was rigged a sloop, and provided
with a cable and grapnel. She was small
enough for a voyage of 500 miles at such a
season, being only twenty-two feet long, and
measuring about six tons. She, however,
proved an excellent sea-boat.

Every thing being completed by the 17th,
we laid in our stores, consisting of dried sal-
mon, berries, and oil, with a cask of water,
and sailed on the following morning. Thd*
crew consisted of Mr. Bertram, second mate,
myself, and seven more of the crew, one In-
dian, who acted as pilot.

The island, on which we had now remain-
ed two months, is called by the natives
Sannack ; by Captairt Cook it is named Ha*
libut island. It is situated in latitude 54. 27.
north, longitude 197. east, and lies 10 or 12
leagues to the south of the promontory pf

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 4*

Aliaski, and about 60 east of Oonalaska. It
fa quite flat, with the exception of two moun-
tains, is eight or ten miles long, and about
six broad. The main land could be distinct*
ly seen ; and the remarkable volcano men-
tioned by Captain Cook, bore n. n. w. from
our tent. It was constantly smoking during
the day, and at night we could frequently see
the flames.

The land produces nothing eatable but
berries. To the south lies the dangerous

reef upon which we were wrecked ; it is of

great extent, for when at the ship we ob-'

served breakers a considerable distance to

the southward.

There is a village of 12 or 19 Indian fa-
milies at the northern extremity of the island.
These people are under the government of
the Russians, for whom they provide furs
for the American Company. They are a
quite inoffensive race, converts to the Greek
church, and, if not very devout, are at least
extremely attentive to the ceremonial part of
crossing themselves.

Their appearance and manners will be af-
terwards more particularly described. As
the whole of their sustenance, clothing, and,
indeed, * every article they make use of, ex-

44 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

eept a few berries, are the produce of the
sea, they are extremely expert in managing
their canoes, and most ingenious in their
modes of catching fish and other sea animals.
They are excellent marksmen with the rifle
and 6pear ; to the latter they fix a bladder,
which prevents the wounded animal from
taking it under water, and dart it with great
force and certainty by means of a throwing
stick.

Like all other savages I have seen, they
are immoderately fond of spirits and tobacco.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 46

CHAPTER IV.

Sail from Sannack in the long-boat — Touch at the Island
of Ungar — Distressing state of the settlement there-
Sail from thence — Anchor at the village of Schutkum—
Departure from it — Boat nearly embayed on the north
coast of Kodiack— Arrived at Alexandria- Transactions
there — Boat fitted out to return to Sannack,

We sailed from Sannack, in the long-boat,
•n the morning of the 18th of November;
but had scarcely been an hour at sea, before
we discovered a leak in the counter, which
forced us to put back.

Having repaired the damage, we again set
sail next morning, with a fair southerly wind.

Our little vessel made better weather than
could have been expected, and so long as it
continued moderate, she scudded before the
sea perfectly dry ; we boomed out the fore-
sail on the weather side, and the wind being
fair, proceeded on our voyage at a great rate*
About noon it freshened into a smart gale,
and the sea rose considerably, frequently
curling over the stern in an alarming man*
ner. Our open cockpit rendered this ex-
tremely dangerous, till we adopted an ex-
pedient of which I fortunately recollected
having read in the voyages of some Dutch

M VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. .

navigators, who used oil to smooth the sea*
Upon trying, the. experiment, it proved an ef-
fectual remedy. We lashed a keg of oil up-
on the taffrail, allowing a small stream to
run from it, which spread a scum over the
surface in our wake, and completely prevent-
ed the waves from topping.

The coast of Aliaski, which we passed
this dpy, is very mountainous, and deeply in-
dented with arms of the sea. Many small
islands lie near the shore, which are Covered
with brushwood. Sometimes a temporary
hut erected by the hunters is to be seen, but
there were no other symptoms of inhabitants.
Extensive reefs of roeka lie a considerably
distance off the land; our pilot, who was
well acquainted with the navigation, took us
.within them; but strangers should be very
cautious in, approaching this part of the
coast ' *

About ten at night we Were close in with
an island of considerable height, and attempt-
ed to pass to leeward, but were prevented by
breakers, which obliged us to tack and pass
cm the outside. A round' lofty rock Kes a
quarter of a mile to the southwest; the
channel within seemed also full of rocks ; and
We were obliged to make another tack.be-

VOTA«8 ROUND THR WORLD., 49

fore we could weather it Our situation, for
about two hours after this, was very alarm-
ing;, we passed mafty sunk rocks/ and were*
repeatedly obliged to tack, in order to avoid
them.

At day-break we found ourselves near a
barren island, four or five miles in length,
lying to the south of a larger one called Un-
gar. We passed through the sound between
them, and coasting along the southern shore
of Ungar, arrived about ten* a. m. at a vil-
lage, situated on the eastern part of the
island, after a run of 160 miles.

We found the settlement here in a most
distressing situation. The whole of the male
inhabitants, except the Russia** overseer and
hid son, and the Indian interpreter, having
gone out to catch seals, about three weeks
before this time, a severe gale of wind came'
on, which their slight canoes were unable to
resist, and every one of them perished. This
dreadful calamity did not prevent the sur-
vivors from receiving us with the kindest
hospitality. We were lodged in the hot
bath, which was 'effectually warmed by the
steam of water' thrown upon red-hot stones.

Ungar is nearly twenty miles in length ; in
the interior the country rises into lofty moun-

48 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

tains; near the sea it is more level, and w
covered with brushwood, but produces no
vegetable food, except berries, and a root
from which the Russians make the liquor
called quass. We remained eight days at
this place, during which we went out seve-
ral times to shoot deer, with which the island
abounds, accompanied by the son of the
overseer and the interpreter; we had tole-
rable sport, and the venison made a most ac-
ceptable addition to our store.

The natives seem, in all respects, the
same as those at Sannack. The settlement
consisted of one Russian and about thirty In-
dian families. The houses of the latter were
built of mud, in the form of a bee-hive, with
a hole at. the top instead of a door ; they had
no fire-places, but warmed themselves by
means of lamps made out of flat hollow
stones, with rush wicks, which, when cold*
they placed under their frocks. One cook-
ing place served for the whole village.

This island is separated from the main-
land, by a strait nearly ten miles wide at
high-water, but so extremely shallow that it
is said to , dry at low ebbs, when deer fre-
quently pass over from the continent.

The village is situated on the north side

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 49

of a, small well-sheltered harbour, the en*
trance to which is between two rocky heads,
not . above a cable's length asunder. With-
in it is about a quarter of a mile broad, and
divides, a short way above the village, into
two branches, one of which extends a con-
siderable distance to the west. There are
three or four high pointed rocks ,a little to
the south of the entrance, but there is deep
water all round. "

We sailed on the morning of the 28th,
with the wind at n. w., and steered between
the main land and a small isle to the east of
Ungar. Before we reached the open sea,
the wind headfed us, and blew with such vio-
fence as to force us back to the' harbour we
left in the morning; Gales from the n. e.,
with heavy falls of snow, prevented us from
sailing for the eight following days. I em-
ployed myself in making a square sail out of
a bolt of canvass we had for the purpose.

Having laid in a store of deer's flesh, dried
and' boiled, v the only provisions the place af-
forded, we again sailed on s the morning of
the 6th of December ; the wind strong from
the west, with squalls, accompanied with
snow showers. The excessive cold made

50 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

us feel severely the want of a camboose, or
fireplace in the boat.

We continued to coast along the main-
land, within half a mile of the shore. Nothing
Could exceed the barren aspect of the coun*
,7, which cons^dof a rLg, of s««p .ad
rugged hills, destitute of wood, or almost
any appearance of vegetation. Many reefe
lie a considerable way off the land*

On the 7 th we passed an island called
St. Ivan, the weather still very cold, with
snow.

In the afternoon the wind veered to the
n. e. and blew with such violence that we
were driven out to sea ; had the gale con-
tinued, our situation would have been highly
critical, for our water was nearly expended,
and we were unprovided with a compass to
direct our course ; fortunately, however, it
abated towards morning, when we tacked
and stood to the shore. About noon we were
close in with the land, and being anxious to
kindle a fire, anchored in a bay, where the
brushwood grew down to the water's edge.
One of the Indians landed to cut firewood,
but he was. scarcely upon shore when three
bears made their appearance, and forced him
to swim back to the boat. We wer$ reluc-

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 51

tantly obliged to desist ; and having weighed
anchor, we went ten miles further to a vil-
lage called Schutcum.

A number of sunk rocks lie about half a
mile to the south of this place, with an intri-
cate and narrow channel, through which we
were piloted by the overseer, who came out
to meet us in a bidarka. •

After remaining here three days, we sail-
ed again on the 13th, having met with the
same hospitable treatment we had uniformly
experienced from these islanders. They li-
bemlly supplied us with berries and oil,bear's
flesh, and dried salmon. Soon after leaving
Schutcum, we doubled a bluff head, and
opened up the strait* that separates Kodiak
from the mainland ; a short way beyond it
passed a narrow entrance leading into a spa-
cious bay or inlet ; the pilot told us that it
streched twenty or thirty verstsf into the
country, and afforded an excellent shelter for
ships. We then stood over to Kodiak, which
we reached in the evening; the wind w. s. w.

* Captain Mears, in the SnowNootka, navigated this
strait in 1786 ; he named it Petrie's Strait. In the chart
affixed to Coxe's Russian Discoveries, and by Dr. Lartgs-
dorf, it is named the Strait of Checkoff.

f A verst is about two-thirds of a mile.

ft YOYAGE ROUNDT THE WORLD.

with fine weather; we run along shore
during the night Next day, about two
o'clock, we passed near a rock, on which se-
veral outches, or sea-lions, were sitting; some
of them swam toward us, uttering loud yells;
but as the boat was going at a great rkte
through the wpter, we soon lost sight of them.
Soon after, whilst crossing a deep bay,
the wind checked round to the northwest,
and blew so hard at times as to oblige us to
take in all our sails. We endeavoured to
run under the west point of the bay, where
there seemed to be good shelter, but we fell
to leeward, and were under apprehensions
that we should not be able to weather the-
poini that formed its eastern extremity. Mr,
Bertram proposed to rua the boat ashore,
but the surf was so heavy, that the attempt
would have been extremely hazardous* I
Wof opinion that we might weather the
point by carrying sail, and he allowed me to
take the helm. Having set our close-reefed
mainsail and storm-jib, the whole crew, ex-
cept myself, went below, and lay as much
as possible to the weather side, by which
means the boat was enabled to carry sail till
we cleared the head. After this we had the

, VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fi3

wind upon our quarter, and the evening
/ proving fine, wq made great progress. ♦

The channel, or strait, which separates
Kodiak from the continent, is about fifteen
leagues in breadth, and, as far as I could
judge, is free from danger, except close in
ahore.

We entered by moonlight the strait be* *
tween Kodiak and several smaller islands to
the east, with a strong tide in our favour?
and were clear of it before daylight.

Being in want of water, we landed early
in the morning, and having kindled a fire,
Bad a warm breakfast before embarking.
The country here was well wooded with
pines, "but we saw no inhabitants. We made
sail about eleven, and entered the harbour
of Alexandria before dark. We hoisted a?
Russian jack which we had on board* upon
which a Baiderai came off and towed us in.
There were two ships and a brig at anchor
m the bay.

Alexandria is the principal Russian settle-
tlement in the Fox islands, and the residence
of the governor, upon whom we waited im-
mediately upon our landing, with our letters
from Mr. Bander.

He gave each of us a tumbles of brandy?

54 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

and sent us to the cazerne, or barracks,
where the Russian convicts lodged.

The brig which lay in the harbour was*
ordered to be fitted out for Saanack, for the
purpose of taking in that part of the cargo
of the Eclipse which had been saved from
the wreck. As it would take a considera-
ble time before she could be got ready, the
governor ordered us to return in the boat
wfth the carpenters and tools required for
our vessel, that no time might be lost.

We remained here three weeks, and du-
ring that time we were employed in prepa-
rations for our return. The boards we had
nailed on the boat's bottom were stripped of£
and she was thoroughly repaired by the
Russian carpenters. A camboose for our
fire was made, by sawing a cask in two, and
filling it with gravel, and secured by lashing
it to the mast. We also provided ourselves
with a compass, the want of which we had
experienced in our voyage thither, our view
of the land having been almost constantly
intercepted by fogs and snow -showers.

Mr. Baranoff, the governor, gave us a
chart of the Fox islands and adjoining conti-
nent, and furnished us with letters, in case
we should find it necessary to touch at any

YOXAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 55

of the Russian settlements; he also sent
three carpenters to assist in the construction
of our vessel.

By the 8th of Jauuary, 1808, every thing
was completed, and we had laid in a good
stock of provisions, consisting of salted pork
and bears' fleslj, two skin bags of rusk, two
casks of water, and a keg of rum, with pre-
served berries, and blubber for the Indians.

56 .VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Alexandria — Boat forced into a bay bjr
the weather, and hauled on shore— Obliged, by want of
• provisions, to leave the bay — A snow storm — The boat
springs a leak — Is run on shore, and goes to pieces up-
on the rocks— A hut discovered, in which the crew
pass the night. '

We quitted the harbour of Alexandria on
the morning of the 9th of January, (O. S.)*
on our voyage back to Halibut island.

With a fine breeze of southerly wind we
coasted along the northeast shore of Ko-
diak, leaving on our right a cluster of islands
which lie to the eastward. Upon the lai>
gest, which is called Afognac, I was inform-
ed thete are several Russian settlements.

This is the finest part of the island I have
seen, the country being covered with wood,
chiefly of the pine tribe, and many of the
trees of great size. The other islands are
also well wooded.

In the evening the wind died away, and
the tide turned against us when nearly half

* The dates, in this part of the work, are according to
the Russian style.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 6*

way through the straits. We anchored for
the night in a cove on the larboard side.

Next moaning, at daylight, we weighed,
with a strong breeze from the east, which
soon carried us clear of the strait. Upon
reaching the open sea, we shaped our course
to the northwest

The headland, or cape, which forms the
extremity on the starboard hand, is perfect-
. ly level on the summit for nearly a mile, and
terminates in a lofty perpendicular cliff.

On the following day the wind changed to
the northwest, and blew hard, with a heavy
sea; as it was directly against us, with every
appearance of a gale coming on, we were
obliged, to bear away for a harbour. At
noon, we reached a well-sheltered bay, on
the northern side of Kodiak. From the
threatening appearance of the weather, it
was judged prudent to haul the boat on
shore ; and there being no habitations with-
in reach, we were under the necessity of
living on board.

The bay was surrounded by high moun-
tains, with a rocky shore, except at our land-
ing jflace, where there was a small extent of
sandy beach. The whole country was, at
this time, many feet deep with snow, which

5S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

prevented us from making any distant excur-
sions. At this place we were forced, by the
weather, to remain ten days.

The dread of famine at last obliged us to
put to sea, although the state of the weather
was by no means favourable for the prose-
cution of our voyage. The surrounding
country produced no food of any kind, and
our stock of provisions was nearly expended.
We left the bay, in hopes of reaching a set-
tlement called Karlouski, which lay at no
great distance to the west.

We launched the boat on the morning of
the 21st, and stood over towards the main-
land. . When about mid-channel, we disco-
vered that the boat had sprung a leak; at
the same time a heavy fall of snow came on,
accompanied with violent squalls. The leak
gained so much upon us, that it became ab-
solutely necessary to run for the nearest
shore. Had the day been clear, we might
have got back to the harbour we had quitted
in the morning ; but the snow rendered it so
dark, that we could scarcely see a boat's
length a-head ; we had therefore no resource
but to put before the wind, and tru^t our
lives to Providence.

The first view we had of the shore was

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, J8

most alarming; we were completely embay-
ed, with a heayy surf breaking amongst the
rocks, whilst at the same time ^^t role nee of
the gale, and the state of the boat, were such
as to preclude any hopes of working out of
the bay. We therefore turned the bow to
that part of the shore which seemed clearest
of rocks, and a sea carried us so far up, that
when it retired, we were left almost dry ;
the next wave carried us a little farther, upon
which the second mate imprudently let go
the anchor; when it retired we all jumped
out, and reached the shore in safety. Upon
the return of the swell, the boat swung round
with her head to the sea, and being prevented
by the anchor from driving farther up, she
almost immediately wfent to pieces upon the
rocks.

. That part of the island on which we were
east was quite barren, and many miles dis-
tant from the nearest settlement, the path to
which lay acros mountains covered with
snow.

After collecting what we could save of the
wreck of the boat, we set out in search of
some place to shelter us for the night, and
fortunately discovered, at no great distance,
one' of those huts that are constructed for

60 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the use of the fox and bear hunters. It was
too small to admit of a lire in the inside ; but
the number^ people crowded into it render-
ed the cold less intense ; and we lighted a fire-
in the open air, at which we made ready our
provisions.

Upon examining our remaining stock, we
found that, with the utmost economy, it
would not last above three or four days ; it
became, therefore, necessary to form some
plan to extricate ourselves from so deplorable
a situation.

The bay in which we were wrecked was
surrounded with high mountains, which ran
down to the shore, terminating in a steep
range of rocks, or what sailors call an iron-
bound coast. Karlouski, the nearest set-
tlement, lay, as we were informed by our
Russian companions, '.at a considerable dis-
tance to the west We deliberated whether
we should attempt to reach it by crossing the
mountains, or by going along shore at low-
water. The danger and difficulty of making
our journey over the snow determined us
from adopting the first plan ; we therefore
fixed on the latter, and determined to set out
on our journey next morning.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORL©. 61

CHAPTER VI.

A party quit the hut in search of a settlement— Authors
feet frost-bitten— Progress of the party interrupted by a
mountain — Return towards the hut, till prevented by the
tide from passing a reef of rocks — Pass the night in a

* valley— Next morning set off at low water— Author falls
behind, and, in attempting to climb over a rock, gets
his hands frost-bitten— Critical situation— Reaches the
hut— Two Russians reach a settlement by the moun-
tains, and send relief— Some account of Karlouski—
Voyage to Alexandria.
♦

On the morning of the 22d we quitted
the hut, leaving one of the Russians and our
Indian pilot to take charge of what we had
saved from the boat.

Having proceeded some distance, we were
interrupted by a reef of rocks, over which it
was necessary to wade. I was provided with
strong seal-skin boots, but unfortunately, in
crossing, they were filled with water, which,
tlje cold being so severe, the exercise of walk-
ing did not prevent from freezing. In a
short time I lost all feeling in my feet, but
was able to keep up with my companions,
till our progress along shore was completely
stopped by a mountain which projected into
the sea* Finding it impossible to get round
the base, we attempted to climb over the

6* VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

summit. It was very steep, and in many
places crusted with ice. I had by this time
entirely lost the power of ray feet, and with
all my exertions, was unable to keep pace
with my companions. In many places I was
forced to dig steps in the ice and snow, with
a pair of boots I had on my bands for that pur-
pose. At length, after great labour and fa-
tigue, I gained what I imagined to be the
summit; it proved, however, to be little more
than half way up, and the higher part of the
mountain was quite inaccessible. I endeav-
oured to descend again; but in a short time
found that the state of my feet rendered the
attempt unavailing. I had no alternative but
to slide down ; and, therefore, throwing away
the boots, and placing my hands behind
me, to direct my course, I came down
with such velocity, that, at the foot of the
hill, I sunk at least ten feet into the frozen
snow. I was at first almost suffocated, till I
made a little room by pressing the snow from
me. I called as loud as I was able for as-
sistance, but could not make my companions
hear me, although I heard their voices per-
fectly well calling upon me. I at length re-
lieved myself, by compressing the snow till
it became sufficiently hard to bear my weight.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 63

I then planted my feet into it, and reached
the surface.

We turned back, and endeavoured to pro-
ceed by a valley which lay behind the moun-
tain. My feet by this time were frozen,
never to recover ; and I was so ill able to as-
cend, that I was frequently blown over by
the wind, and sometimes driven a consider-
able way down the hill. Exhausted by these
fruitless trials to keep up with the rest, I be*
came totally unable to proceed, and was left
to my fate. . I laid myself down on the snow
in a state of despair. Having recovered a
little, I resolved to make another attempt to
follow the track of my companions, but had
Hot proceeded far when I met them coming
down the hill, which had proved to be impas-
sable.

We now set off on our return to the hut,
but were soon interrupted by a steep rock,
which the rising tide prevented us from pass-
ing. We had no resource but to wait till
low water next day, and to pass the night
where we were. This was a most unfortu-
nate circumstance for me, for had I reached
the hut, and got my feet dried, they would
in ail likelihood have recovered. It blew
hard, and the night was piercingly cold ; we

64 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. -

therefore returned to the valley, where there
was at least some shelter from the wind

The Russians, who knew the effects of
cold, informed us that the consequences of
lying down would be fatal. Although well
aware of this, I was so much. overcome by
cold and fatigue, that I several times dropt
asleep upon pay feet ; but my companions,
who had not suffered so much, took care to
arouse me.

Next morning we again set off for the hut,
and met with no interruption till we came to
the reef where I had got my feet wet. In
consequence of the high wind, the swell was
heavier than it had been the day before, and
my feet were so powerless that a wave wash-'
ed me completely off the reef into deep wa-
ter. It was fortunately towards the. shore,
and on the returning wave I recovered my
footing, and succeeded in getting over.

I followed my companions as well as my
exhausted strength and the state of my feet
would permit, but fell considerably behind,
qnd had entirely lost sight of them, when,
my progress was impeded by a projecting
crag, through which a natural perforation
formed the only passage. The entrance
was elevated a considerable way from the

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 65

ground, and that part of the rock over which
it was necessary to scramble was nearly per-
pendicular, and almost covered with ice.

With a Jit tie assistance I could have easily
got over, but situated as I was, my own ex-
ertions were of little avail. My feet were of
no use in climbing, and I was obliged to drag
myself up by my hands, in doing which they
also were frozen. After many ineffectual
attempts, I had, as I thought, gained the top,
but when I had tried to lay hold of a pro-
jection in the rock, my fingers refused to
perform their office, and I fell to the ground*

The tide was fast rising, and the surge
already washed the spot where I stood ; in
a few minutes it would have been too late,
and I must have perished had I been obliged
to remain . another tide, with my feet and
hands frozen, and. my whole body wet. As
a last resource, I collected a few stones,
which I had just strength to pile sufficiently
high to enable me to get over.

This took place early m the day, and thfe
hut was only a few miles farther on, but I
was so much enfeebled that I did not reach
it till dusk.

I never again walked on my feet, but, by

66 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the blessing of God, recovered the use of my
hands, with the loss of only two fingers.

I was treated with great humanity upon
my arrival by the Russians, who had pre-
served their clothes dry in seal-skin bags.
They gave me a suit, and having cut off
my boots, wrapped my feet and hands in
flannel drawers. I was laid upon a bed of
dried grass, after having satisfied my hunger
with some rusk and blubber, which were the
only provision that remained.

As our stock was so low, no time was to
be lost in procuring assistance; accordingly,
the two who had remained set out next morn-
ing to endeavour to reach the settlement
by the mountains.

On the third day after their departure our
provisions were completely exhausted ; but
the weather had been tolerable, and we knew
that if they succeeded they would lose no
time in sending us relief.

On the 27th, those who had been on the
look out brought the joyful intelligence that
five canoes were in sight, which proved to
have been sent by our companions, who had
reached the village in safety.

We quitted the hut on the 28th, in the
canoes, which were baidarkas, with three

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 67

seats in each. In crossing a bay we encoun-
tered a heavy sea; in order to keep me dry
I was put below, and the hole in which I sat
was stuffed up with the gut frock.

It was a great relief to me when we got into
Smoother water, for the space into which I was
crammed was so small that I had nearly been
suffocated. We arrived at Karlouski in the
evening.

This settlement consisted of about thirty
Indian families, and several Russians; the
latter lived together in a cazerne, and the
Indians in huts, which at this place were
built of logs, wood being plenty. I was car-
ried to the cazerne, where I was laid upon a
bed of skins, and treated with the utmost at-
tention ; but as the place afforded no medical
assistance, my feet and hands began to mor-
tify, and my health was otherwise so much
impaired that I was frequently in a state of
delirium.

We remained here till about the 25th of
February^ when we took our passage in a
Baiderai, or large skin-boat, bound to Alex-
andria, with a cargo of furs, berries, oil, and
fish. They had for provisions the salmon-
roe, preserved in train oil, and kept in blad-
ders. This is by them esteemed a delicacy,
but it was too strong for my stomach.

68 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

The first night we landed at a village con-
structed differently from any I had hitherto
seen ; the whole of the houses, except the
roofs, were under ground, and communicated
with each other by a subterraneous passage.
Bad weather, and contrary winds, detained
us at this place eleven days.

We sailed again on the 7th of March. The
wind being fair, we hoisted a square sail, and
ran before i t, at a great rate. There is a group
of small islands a-breast of the south point
of North Island, at which place the tides
meet, causing a heavy breaking sea ; and as
the Baiderai was deeply loaded, it had a
frightful appearance. The frame of the ves*.
sel was so extremely slight, that when be-
tween the waves, she was bent into a deep'
curve, and whilst on the top of the wave the
two ends were as much depressed. I was in-
constant apprehension that the frame would
give way. She however went through the
sea drier than a stiffer vessel would have done,
and we reached the harbour of Alexandria
on the 9th, without any accident.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 6*

CHAPTER VII. •

'Author carried to hospital— -Both his feet amputated— Ac-
count of the party left at Sannack— Employed in teach-
ing native children English — Account of Kodiafe— Na-
tives — Dress — Canoes — Superstition — Food—Author
\, sails in the ship Neva for the Sandwich Islands.

Upour our arrival at Alexandria Kwas im*
Mediately carried to the hospital. The sur-
geon, on examining my feet, found them in a
state of mortification; he used poultices of
rye, and other applications, for several days,
in hopes of effecting a cure. On the second
day he cut off one of my fingers ; I lost a
joint of another, but all the rest recovered.

Finding no favourable symptoms in my
feet, he informed me I must submit to lose
them in order to save my life. I had no idea
that the case was so hopeless, and was not
prepared for such an alternative. I request-
ed three days to consider. At the end of
that time I told him I had made up my mind,
and would submit to the operations. Ac-
cordingly he amputated one of them on the
15th of March, and the other on the 17th of
April following. Unfortunately for me he
cut them off below the ankle joint, from a
wish to take as little away as possible j the

70 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

gores extended above the place, and have
never completely healed. By the month of
August I could creep about on my hands and
knees.

My case excited great compassion, and a
subscription was raised for me by Governor
Baranoff and the officers of the ships that lay
in the harbour, which amounted to one hun-
dred and eighty rubles*

Whilst in the hospital, the brig arrived
that had been despatched to Sannack for the
goods saved from the wreck ; with her came
Mr. Bander, and also the mate and boat-
swain of the Eclipse, who had left Captain
O'Kean in consequence of a difference that
bad taken place. They informed me that
he had nearly completed the vessel, which
was a brig of about seventy tons, and that
he would find no difficulty in manning her
with Russians and Indians. I afterwards
heard from some Indians, who had come with
despatches from Oonalaska, that the vessel
was launched and had sailed «from Sannack.
What became of her afterwards I never
could learn with certainty, but it was report*,
ed that she had foundered at sea, and all on
board perished*

The mate, second mate, and boatswain,

C-rt& At

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 71

left Kodiak in a ship called the Neva, bound
for Sitcha, an island near Norfolk Sound,
where the Russians have lately established a
settlement, from whence, I understand, they
went to China in an American ship.

Mr. Baranoff, the governor, went to Sit*
cha at the same -time, leaving Mr. Bander in
charge of the colony.

When I had tolerably recovered my
strength, I was employed by that gentleman
ia teaching eight Indian children the English
language, in order that they might be quali-
fied to act as interpreters to the American
ships that frequently touch at these islands*
My pupils were between the ages of eight
and thirteen, and had all been taught the
Russian language, of which, by this time, I
understood a little.

I had to labour under great difficulties for
want of books and grammars, and was ob-
liged to form the letters of the alphabet in
the best manner I was able. This was iffc
easy task to me, both from want of practice,
and the state of my right hand, which I could
with difficulty open or shut. I, however,
succeeded in teaching them to read the let-
ters, but my father progress was interrupted
by mj departure from the island. I have

n VOYAGE ROUND THE WORL».

very little doubt of my ultimate success, bad
I remained, for the boys were uncommonly
quick and apt to learn.

The island of Kodiak is the principal pos-
session of the Russians on the northwest
coast of America. It is above a hundred
miles long, from northeast to southwest,
and about fifty across at the wider part ; but
its breadth is very irregular, the shore being
indented with deep bays and inlets.

The climate is by no means favourable ;
the snow lies on the ground till the end of
April, and although the cold in winter is
not very intense, the season is seldom free
from fogs, snow, or rain. The summers are
also very wet, and subject to frequent fogs.

Kodiak contains but a scanty population,
the inhabitants are scattered through eight
or ten villages upon the coast, and are em-
ployed in collecting furs for the Russian
American Company. These villages, in ge-
neral, consist of a few Indian families, who
are under the charge of a Russian overseer.

No part of the island is cultivated except
a garden or two near the town, and a little
barley at the village of Superscoff. It con-
tains, however, a great deal of fine timber,
chiefly larches, spruces, and other kinds of

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 73

pine. Many of the trees are large enough
to make spars of considerable dimensions.

Alexandria,* the principal town on the
island, and the residence of the governor,
is situated on the eastern side of an extensive
bay. It possesses an excellent harbour, being
well sheltered by several small islands that
lie to the southwest The eastern entrance,
which is the safest', is not above a mile wide,
and is defended by a battery or small fort*
There is also an entrance to the west ; but
it is narrow and intricate,* and requires a lead-
ing wind to pass through.

The town consists of about fifty houses,
built of logs, the seams of which are calked
with moss, and the roofs thatched with grass ;
they are, in general, divided into three apart-
ments below, and as many on the upper story.
They are heated by stoves or ovens ; when
the wood is reduced to ashes, the vent is
closed by means of a slide fitted for the pur-
pose, and the heated air then diffusing itself
through the room, renders it extremely com-
fortable. The windows, instead of being
glazed, are covered with pieces of the gut

* This place is named St. Paul by Captain Lisiansky.
We must suppose that, since his visit in 1803, the name
has been changed in honour of the present Emperor. Dr.
Langsdorf merely calls it the new harbour of Kodiak.

74 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

of the seal, split up and sewed together;
this, after being well oiled, is stretched on a
frame, and defended from the wind by cross-
bars on each side. Talc is also used for the
same purpose. This substance is found in
flakes about the size of the palm of the hand,
and several of these are puttied together to
form a pane.

About sixty Indians reside at this place ;
they live in a large circular building or bar-
rack, called the Cazerne AleuskoL

The town also possesses a church, a bar-
rack for the Russian convicts, a school, and
several storehouses belonging to the North-
West Company.

At the school the children of the natives
are taught the Russian language, writing,
and arithmetic ; there were about fifty scho-
lars, and, as far as I could judge from the
few under my charge, there is no difficulty
in teaching them these acquirements.

Here, as at Kamschatka, most of the Rus-
sians are married to native women.

This is the principal depot of the Ameri-
can Company;* the furs collected at the

* This Company was established in the reign of the
Empress Catherine II. for the purpose of giving solidity
And effect to the tor trade ; and the better to promote

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 7S

different settlements on the coast are sent
here, and lodged in the Company's stores
till ships arrive to carry them to Kamschatka,
whence they are sent to China, or overland
to St. Petersburgh.

The natives, in return for the furs which
they procure for the Company, receive cloth,
powder and shot, beads, toys, and articles
of luxury, such as rum, tobacco, and snuff,
of which they are immoderately fond.

A considerable trade is carried on with
the Americans who call at these islands.
Their ships take on board a certain number
of natives, with their baidarkas, and imple-
ments of fishing and hunting. They then
proceed to the coast of California, where
there is great abundance of fur seals, and
otters, and, with the assistance of the Indians,
generally complete their cargoes in two sea-
sons. On their return the American Com-
pany are entitled to a certain proportion of
their furs, as an equivalent for the labour of
the Indians. The Eclipse was on a voyage

these purposes, all the islands lying between Kamschatka
and the Russian part of the northwest coast of America
were granted them in perpetuity. His present majesty,
Alexander I., has extended the privileges of the Company,
and graciously declared himself their immediate patron*

Lviansky, ft. lJ.

76 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

of this description, when chartered by the
Russians to bring a cargo from China.

A few miles to the west of Alexandria,
there is another village called Superscoff,
the property of a Russian of that name, who
had been settled there above fifteen years.
From this place thclown of Alexandria de-
rives its principal supply of salmon and dried
fish. They had a herd of black cattle con-
sisting of seventy, all sprung from one cow
which Superscoff brought with htm. The
milk, butter, and cheese, used at the town,
were brought from this place.

Their stock of cattle, having been but re-
cently introduced, is too small to admit of
their slaughtering any, and bear's flesh is the
only fresh meat consumed upon the island.
The bears are either shot or caught in traps.;
the trap is merely a piece of board, about
two inches thick, and two feet square, stuck
full of spikes, barbed, and kept extremely
sharp; this is set in their paths, and covered
with dust ; from the weight of the animal,
when he sets down liis foot, the spikes enter
it; to assist himself in pulling the first away,
he plants another on the trap, and continues
his exertions, till, at last, all his four feet are
transfixed, when he falls on his back, and is
taken.

• VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 77

The natives of the Fox islands, or Aleu-
skoi, as they are called by the Russians, are

low in stature, broad in the visage, with dark
eyes and hair.

The principal article of their dress is a
large frock called a parka, made of fur or
skin, frequently of the skins of sea-fowls,
which they wear with the feathers out du-
ring the day, and next their skin at night.
This piece of dress is nearly the same in both
sexes. When at sea, they wear a frock of
another kind, called a amelengka; made
of the gut of the seal, to which a hood is at-
tached, and tied close round the face, the
sleeves being equally tight at the wrist.
Upon their limbs they frequently wear boots
and breeches in one piece, made of seal
hide, over which the cameletfgka is fastened
close, so that their dress is perfectly water-
proof.

They are extremely fond of ornaments, par-
ticularly beads, with which the women deco-
rate themselves in great profusion, sewing
them round the neck, skirts, and wrists of their
skin frocks. They also wear them in their
ears, or suspend them from a hole made in
their under-lip, and sometimes hang them

round each end of a bone of about five in-

7.*-

78 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. •

ches long, which they pass through the gris-
tle of the nose, called by sailors their sprit-
sail-yard. They do not tattoo themselves
like the Sandwich islanders, but they often
paint, or rather daub their faces in streaks,
with red ocre and train-oil.
Their canoes are made of the skin of sea-lions,
stretched over slight wooden frames ; those
of the largest size, callad baiderais, are open,
and can contain sixty or seventy people ; the
smaller kind, called baidarkas, being quite
close, have a hole in the covering, or deck,
for each sitter, and carry one, two, or three
persons. They are rowed, either with dou-
ble-bladed paddles, which are held by the
middle, or by single-bladed ones, with crutch
handles, which are shifted to each side al-
ternately ; the rowers sit with their faces to
the bow, and pull them with great swiftness.
It is wonderful what long voyages they
make in these slight boats; several of them
came from Oonalaska to Kodiak during my
stay in that island. No water can get into
them in the roughest weather, for the came-
lengka, a gut frock, which Indians wear
when at sea, is stuffed tight round them at
the hole. From their flat construction, and
extreme lightness, the weight of the people

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 7*

sitting in these canoes renders them top
heavy, and many accidents arise from their
oversetting. In this respect, the single-ho-
led ones are much the safest, for even when
overset, a slight exertion is sufficient to right
them.

In catching seals, and other amphibious
animals, these people show great dexterity
and ingenuity. Concealing themselves be-
hind rocks, they decoy them by throwing a
seal skin, blown out like a bladder, into the
sea. To this is fixed a line made of the
sinew of the whale, by which they draw it to
them, when it is followed by the seals, who
take it for an animal of their own species.
As soon as within reach, they are killed with
spears, or bows and arrows.

The natives, as I have already observed,
are converts to the Greek church, but their
religion consists in little more than crossing
themselves whenever they enter a house;
they are, however, abundantly superstitious,
and put complete faith in the predictions of
their shamans, or astrologers. Whilst I was
there an eclipse of the moon took place, on
which occasion they confidently affirmed that
it was the sign of great events happening in
Europe. Indeed, not only the natives, but

80 VOYAGE ROUND THE WOIlLfl.

the Russians themselves seemed to be of the
same opinion ; and the next ship bringing in-
telligence of war between England and Rus-
sia, served to confirm their belief.

The food of the natives consists of fish,
fresh or dried, principally salmon ; blubber
or whale fat ; whale and seal oil ; the flesh
of seals and other amphibious animals; and
berries preserved in oil.

In consequence of this diet, as well as the
state of filth in which they live, they are
very liable to the scurvy ; indeed, few of
them are free from ulcers and scorbutic erup-
tions.

On the return of the Neva from Sitcha,
she was ordered to be prepared for a voyage
to the Sandwich islands, and was provided-
with a supply of adzes, hatchets, teeth of the
sea-horse, and other articles suited for that
market.

It would appear that the Russians had de-
termined to form a settlement upon these-
islands ; at least, preparations were made for
the purpose ; and I was informed by the com-
mandant, that, if I chose, I might get a situa-
tion as interpreter The ship had a house-
in frame on board, and intimation was given
that volunteers would be received; none*

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 81

however, offered ; and I never observed that
any other steps were taken in this affair.

Being sure of meeting with American ves-
sels at the Sandwich islands, in which I might
get to Europe or America, I expressed a de-
sire to embrace this opportunity of quitting
Kodiak, and was accordingly permitted to
take my passage in the ship.

The Neva had a crew of seventy-five sea-
men, belonging to the Russian imperial ser-
vice, and was commanded by Captain Ha-
geimeister, who had been bred in the British
navy, and could speak English fluently. The
ship herself was British built, and had made
a voyage round the world.*

The preparations for the expedition being
completed, we left the harbour on the 11th
of December, O. S., with a fair wind, and
soon lost sight of the Island.

* This ship sailed round the world in the Russian ex- •
pedition under Captain Krusenstern, and was commanded
by Captain Lisiauski, who has published an account of the
voyage. He talks in raptures of her good qualities. " As
to the Neva itself, I shall be excused, if, with the warmth
cf a sailor, I declare, that there never sailed a more love-
ly vessel, or one more complete and perfect in all its parts.
So little had it suffered from the length of the voyage, and
even from the disaster of striking on the coral rocks at
our newly-discovered island, that, in a few weeks, it was
again ready for sea, and was despatched ' to the north*
west coast of America."— Lwamk?* Voyage^ p. 317,

$* VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER VIIL

Voyage to Sandwich Islands— Make Owhyhee—- Touch at
Mowee— Proceed to Wahoo— Tamaahmaah and other
chiefs come on board— Author resides three months
with the King-— Account of his mode of life — Remove to
the house of Isaac Davis — Account of him— Death of
Terremytee, the King's brother, and transactions that
took place on that occasion— Remarkable water-spout
—Author receives a grant of land from the King, to
which he removes— Residence there — Arrival of the
ship Duke of Portland— Anecdotes of the King— De-
parture from the Sandwich Islands.

We proceeded on our voyage to the Sand-
wich islands, and enjoyed fine weather, with
favourable winds.

No land was seen from the time we quit-
ted the Fox islands, till the 27th of January.

On that morning, at day-break, we dis-
covered the mountains of Owhyhee, at the
distance of ten leagues. In the afternoon
we were close in with the land, and coasted
along the north side of the island.

The breeze being light, several canoes
came from the shore with fresh provisions.
We stood off and on for some time, carrying
on a brisk trade with the natives ; amongst
other things supplied by them, we were sur-
prised to find sheep and goats, the breed of

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 83

which, although but recently introduced, has
increased so rapidly that they already form
an article of trade.

We passed the foot of Mouna-kaa,* one
of the highest mountains in the world* The
sides are extremely steep, and although situ-
ated within the tropics, the summit is per-
petually covered with snow ; a narrow tract
of level ground lies between the base of the
mountain and the sea, terminating in high
abrupt cliffs, presenting, at a distance, a most
barren appearance. On a nearer approach,
however, we could observe numerous patches
of cultivated land, and the lower parts of the*
mountain covered with wood. Farther to
the west the plains are of greater extent,
the country well wooded, and in a high state
of cultivation, with many villages and houses,
presenting every appearance of a numerous
and industrious population.

* Captain King estimates the height of this mountain
at not less than 18,400 feet ; exceeding the peak of Tene-
rifFe, according to the computation of the Chevalier Borda,
by nearly 6,000 feet. The result of a trigonometrical mea-
surement by the latter, gives 1,742 toises, as the altitude
of that mountain above the level of the sea.

Vid. Cook's Third Voyage, Vol. III. p. 103 ; and Pby-
agtfitttftar ordre du Rrt+an 1771-2. Tom. Lj. 119,

S4 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Mouna-roa,* one of the mountains in the
interior is a volcano ; a few years before this
time a violent eruption took place, when it
sent forth a stream of lava which ran into
the sea. Isaac Davis, with whom I after-
wards resided, and who had gone in a canoe to
witness it, informed me, that where the lava
joined the sea, the heat was so intense that
he could not approach nearer than fifty yards.
We did not see any flame or smoke issuing
from the crater.

We made sail in the evening, and reached
Mowee the following day.

Whilst running along the southeast side
of the island, several canoes came off with
refreshments. In one of them was a white
man, calling himself Joseph Wynn, an Ame-
rican. He had resided several years upon
the island, where he had a family, and cul-
tivated a piece of land, which had been grant-
ed to him by Crymakoo, a powerful chief.

I afterwards learned that his real name
was Angus Maccallum, a native of Houstoun,
in Renfrewshire. Having served with his

* According to the admeasurement of Dr. Horner, as-
tronomer to the Russian expedition under Captain Kru-
senstern, in* 1804, the height of Mouna-roa is 2,254 toises.
—Kru%dt*terrC% Voyage* Vol. I. p. 193.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. 66

brother in the Diana frigate, and coming
from the same part of the country, a great
degree of intimacy naturally took place be-
tween us, and we had much conversation
together.

Amongst other things, I told him that I
understood the Russians had some intention
of forming a settlement on the Sandwich
islands. This reached the captain's ears ;
and be gaye me a severe reprimand, for har*
ing, as he expressed it, betrayed their secrets.
He (Jesired me to say no more on the subject
in future, otherwise I should not be permitted,
to quit the ship.

, I know not what obstacle prevented this
plan frqm being carried irfto effect ; but al-
though the Neva remained several months
in the country, I never heard any more of
the settlement.

• We came to. anchor ill the harbour of La-
hiba. The captain went ashore and return-
ed with a supply of fresh provisions. ' I wish*
ed much to have accompanied him, but the
surf rendered the landing too difficult for one
in my helpless condition.

Tamaahmaah, king of Owhyhee, Mowee,

. Wahoo, and the adjoining islands, resided

dome years at this place. His, house, which

86 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

we could distinctly see from the ship, was
built of brick, after the European- manner.
Of late, he has fixed his residence at Wahoo;
upon learning which, the captain determined
to proceed thither.

The island of Mowee is of great height
At a distance it appears like two islands ; a
low flat piece of land running completely
across, and dividing it into two peninsulas.
Maccallum informed me that it was very fer-
tile; that provisions were abundant, and
much cheaper than at either Owhyhee or
Wahoo.

We weighed on the morning of the 29th,
and passing between the islands of Moro-
kai and Ranai, rSached the harbour of Ha-
naroora, on the south side of Wahoo, the
same evening.

A number of natives came off, as usual,
the moment the ship hove in sight. King
Tamaahmaah was in a large double canoe ;
on his coming alongside, he sent his inter-
preter on board to announce his arrival.

The captain immediately went to the
gangway to receive his majesty, and shook
bands with him when he came upon deck.

Be was, on this occasion, dressed as a

VOYAGE ROUND- THE WORLD. 87

European, in a blue coat and grey panta-
loons.

Immediately on his coming aboard, the
lung entered into earnest conversation with
the captain. Amongst other questions, he
asked, whether the ship was English or Ame-
rican ? being informed that she was Russian,
he answered, " Meitei, meitei," or, Very
good/ A handsome scarlet cloak, edged and
ornamented with ermine, was presented to
him from the governor of the Aleutian islands.
After trying it on, he gave it to his attend-
ants to be taken on shore. I nevar saw him

-use it afterwards. In other canoes came
Tamena, one of his queens, Crymakoo, his
brother-inJaw, and other chiefs of inferior
rank.

- My appearance attracted the notice, and
excited the compassion of the queen ; and
finding it was my intention to remain upon
the islands, she invited me to take up my
residence in her house* I gladly availed my-
self of this offer, at which she expressed much
pleasure ; it being a great object of ambi-
tion amongst the higher ranks to have white
people to reside with them. When the ship
was brought to anchor, she sent me ashore
in one of her canoes* *

« VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLR

Captain Hagemeister recommended meat?
the same time to the notice of the king, by
informing him, that I conld not only make
and repair the sails of his vessels, but also
weave the cloth of which they were made.

The king assured him that I should be
treated with the utmost kindness. It will
be seen in the sequel how well he performed
bis promise.

Upon landing I was much struck with the
beauty and fertility of. the country, so dif*
ferent from the barrenness of the Fox islands*
The village of Hanaroora, which consisted
of several, hundred houses, is well shaded
with large cocoa-nut trees. The king's re-
sidence, built close upon the shore, and sur-
rounded by a pallisade upon the land side*
was distinguished by the British colours and
a. battery of sixteen carriage-guns, belonging
to his ship, the Lilly Bird, which at this time
lay unrigged in the harbour. This palace
consisted merely of a range of huts, viz. the
king's eating-house, his sleeping-house, the
queen's house, a store, powder-magazine, and
guard-house, with a few huts for the attend-
ants, alt constructed after the fashion of the
country.

At a •fehort distance were two extensive

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 89

store-houses, built of stone, which contained
the European Articles belonging to the king*

I was conducted to the house occupied by
the two queens. It consisted of one large
apartment, spread with mats ; at one end of
which the attendants of both sexes slept, and
at the , other the queens occasionally slept
when the king was in the morai.

They and their attendants always eat here,
and Tamena wished me to join them ; but as
I had been informed by Crymakoo, that if I
did so, I should not be allowed to eat with
men, I resolved to decline her offer.

The Neva remained in the harbour, three
months, during which time I ate my victuals
on board. At the end of that period, hav-
ing completed a cargo of provisions, consist-
ing of salted pork and dried taro root, she
sailed for Kodiak and Kamschatka. I was
then invited by the king to take my meals in
his eating-house, and at the same time he
desired a young American, of the name of
William Moxely, a native of Norfolk, in Vir-
ginia, who understood the language, to eat
along with me, to act as my interpreter. The
king's mode of life was very simple; he
breakfasted at eight, dined at noon, and sup-
ped at sunset

90 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

His principal chiefs being always about
his person, there were generally twenty or
thirty persons present; after being seated
upon mats, spread on the floor, at dinner, a
dish of poe, or taro pudding, was set before
each of them, which they ate with their fin-
gers, instead of spoons. This fare, with salt
fish and consecrated pork from the morai,
formed the whole of the repast, no other
food being permitted in the king's house.
A plate, knife and fork, with boiled potatoes,
Were, however, always set down before
Moxely and me, by his majesty's orders.
He concluded his meal by drinking half a
glass of rum, but the bottle was immediate-
ly sent away, the liquor being tabooed, or
interdicted to his guests. The breakfast
and supper consisted offish and sweet pota-
toes.

The respect paid to the king's person, to
his house, and even to his food, formed a re-
markable contrast to the simplicity of his
mode of living.

Whenever he passed, his subjects were
obliged to uncover their heads and shoulders.
The same ceremony took place upon their
entering, or even passing, his residence ; and
every house which he entered was ever af-
ter honoured with the same marks of respect.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 91

Once, when employed in the house of Isaac
Davis, making a loom for the king, I obser-
ved him passing, and being ignorant of this
custom, requested him to enter and observe
my progress ; but he declined doing so, in-
forming me of the consequence. He, there-
fore seated himself at the door, till I brought
out my work for his inspection.

When his food was carrying from the
cooking-house, every person within hearing
of the call Noho, or, sit down, given by the
bearers, was obliged to uncover himself, and
squat down on his hams;*

This ceremony was particularly inconve-
nient when the water used - in the king's
house was carried past; there being none of
a good quality near Hanaroora, it was neces-
sary to bring it from the mountains, a dis-
tance of five miles." The calabash carriers

♦ Scotice, •• on his hunkers S* The emphatic word used
by the author in describing this particular mode of genu-
flexion, and which has no English synonim into which it
can be translated, is thus defined by Jamieson : •« To sit
with the hips hanging downwanis, and the weight of the
body depending on the knees."—— Scot. Diet. verb.
■Hunkers.

" WV ghastly e'e, poor Tweedle-dee*
'* Upon his hunkers bended."— Burns.

to VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

were obliged, when any person appeared in
sight, to call out Noho. They, however,
ran past as quick as they could, not to de-
tain his majesty's subjects in so unpleasant
an attitude.

White people were not required to pay
these honours, though scrupulously exacted
from the natives.

Tamaahmaah was most attentive in per-
forming the duties of religion, and constantly
attended the morai on the taboo days, which
took place about four times each month.
The ceremonies lasted one day and two
nights; during which time no person was
permitted to pass the bounds of the rporai.

When the king was absent on these occa-
sions, I did not experience the same atten-
tion as at other times ; the attendants be-
came very remiss in providing mydinner,
and I was sometimes obliged to go without
it altogether.

I accompanied the king once to the morai;
but not relishing the confinement, and being
unwilling to makS complaints, I removed,
about the beginning of May, to the house of
Isaac Davis, a Welshman, who had been
about twenty years upon the island, and re-
mained with him till the king gave me a grant
of land about six months afterwards.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 93"

Mr. Davis arrived at the Sandwich islands
as mate of a small American schooner. The
captain, a very. young man, having incau-
tiously permitted the natives to go on board,
without any restriction, a chief, of the name
of Tamahmotpo, observing this, planned her
capture. For which purpose a number of
natives, under various pretences, crowded
_ into the vessel, and, upon a signal being
given, threw the whole crew, five in number,
mto the sea. Davis, being an excellent swim*
mer, laid hold of ope of the canoe% from
which, however, he was beat off by paddles.
He swam to another, where the natives alscr
attempted to beat him off; but being' a stout,
athletic man, he was able to keep his hold.
Having no arms, they attempted to put him
to death, by holding him under the water,
and beating him with their paddles ; and al-
so endeavoured to strangle him, by placing
his neck across one of the beams of the canoe,
and trampling upon him. But by this time
. the rest of the crew having been destroyed,
and the schooner taken possession of, they
relented, and ceased to torment him any far-,
ther. He was carried ashore blind, and al-
* most lifeless, and it was eighteen months be-
fore he recovered his sight. He told me,

94 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

that, before this time, he had never believed
in the existence of God, and had led a very
sinful life; that, upon the near prospect of
death, the idea of his offences filled him with
terror; and that he tried to repeat the Lord's
Prayer, and felt hiipself strengthened after,
doing so.

. Tamaahmaah, who was at a distant part
of the island, was extremely indignant afc
Tamahmotoo when he heard of this outrage.

He took the- vessel from him for the pur-
pose of restoring her to her owners, and
showed the utmost kindness to Davis* Near-
ly at the same time another Englishman, of
the name of Young, was detained upon the
island.

.These two constantly attached themselves
to Tamaahmaah ; and, from their knowledge
of fire-arms, proved of essential service in the
expeditions in which he conquered Mowee,
Morotoi, and Wahoo.

They were rewarded, by being raised to
the rank of chiefs, and received extensive
grants of land.

When Tamaahmaah removed to Wahoo,
Davis accompanied him, and he left Young
as governor of Owhyhee. These two he
always treated with much greater confidence

Voyage r6und the world. 3$

than any of tha native chiefs. Davis had
extensive grants of land on several of the
islands. Upon Wahoo alone he had estates
on which were four or five hundred people,
who cultivated the land, and paid him a rent
in kind. These were exempted from the
taxes paid by the other chiefs for their lands ;
but Davis frequently made the king presents
of feather cloaks, and other valuable articles.
He was married to a native woman, by
whom he had no children. By a former wife
he had three, two of whom were left under
the charge of Mr. Young of Owhyhee. His
house was distinguished from those of the
natives only by the addition of a shed in froSt
to keep off the sun ; within, it was spread
with mats, but had no furniture, except two
benches to sit upon. He lived very much
like the natives, and had acquired such a
taste for poe, that he preferred it to any other
food. We had, however, at all times abun-
dance of pork, goafs flesh, and mutton, and
frequently beef sent by Young from Owhy-
hee ; and in the mornings and evenings we
had tea. His wealth consisting of mats,
feathers, and cloth, the produce of the island,
and a large assortment of European articles*
which he had acquired by trading with the

9i VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

ships that touched here ; these were contained
in a htrge storehouse, built of stone, adjoining
his dwelling.

My first employment was to overhaul the
sails of the king's, vessels, and to repair such
as were out of order. After working two
or three months at this he desired me to
make some canvass.

Having informed him that a loom was ne-
cessary, he ordered Boyd, his principal car-
penter, to make one. This, however, Boyd
declined, from an illiberal notion held by
many of the white people, that the natives
should be taught nothing that would render
iJfem independent of strangers. He told the
king he'd id not know how to make looms ;
upon which I undertook to make one myself;
although, by so doing, f incurred the dis-
pleasure oPmany of my countrymeii. Davi6
had a native servant called Jack, who work-
ed as a tailor, and was a very handy fellow.
This man showed much anxiety to observe
how I proceeded ; but his master told me by
Ho means to allow him, as he was so quick he
would soon learn to make a loom himself.
When I said I had no wish to make it a se-
cret, he replied, that if the Natives could
treave cloth, and supply themselves, ships

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. *7

would have do encouragement to -call at the
islands. Another instance of this narrow
way of thinking occurred, when a brother of
the queen's, whose name I do not remember,
but who was usually called* by the white
people, John Adams, wished me to teach him
to read, Davis would not permit me, obser-
ing, 4 * they will soon know more than our-
selves."

The making of the loom, from want of as-
sistance, and want of practice, proved a ve-
ry tedious job. I succeeded tolerably welL
at last; and having procured a supply of
thread, spun by the women from the fibres
of the plant pf which their fishing lines are
made, I began my operations.* After work-*
ing a small piece, I took it to the king as a
specimen. He approved of it in every re-
spect except breadth, which was only about
half a yard, saying, he wished it made wide
enough for an awning to his ship. This wag
beyond my power; but I told him I could
make it a yard wide, and then sow it up into
any size. He accordingly ordered me to
make a loom of the necessary dimensions.

♦ The author was obliged to employ a boy to work
the treadles, not being able to work them himself from
the loss of his feet.

98 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

The small piece I wove he kept, and show-
ed it to every captain that arrived as a spe-
cimen of the manufacture of the country. I
had nearly finished the other loom, when
the ship arrived in which I quitted the island.

During the time I resided with Davis,
Terremytee, the king's brother, died. His
body Iby in state, for a few days, in the mo-
rai, and was afterwards buried, according to
custom, in a secret manner.

The public mourning that took place on
this occasion was of so extraordinary a na-
ture, that, had I not been an eye-witness, I
could not have given credit to it.

The natives cut off their hair, and went
about completely naked. Many of them,
particularly the women, disfigured them-
»elvess, by knocking out their front teeth,
and branding their faces with red hot stones,
and the small end of calabashes, which they
held burning to tbeir faces till a circular
mark was produced; whilst, at the same
time, a general, I believe I may say an uni-
versal, public prostitution of the women took
place. The queens, and the widow of the
deceased, alone exempted.

When the captain of a ship that lay in
the harbour remonstrated with the king

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 99

upon these disgraceful scenes, he answered
that such was the law, and he could not pre-
Tent them.

About this time an immense water-spout
broke in the harbour. It was first observed
in the south, about noon. The day. was
fine, with a clear atmosphere, and nearly
calm. When I saw it first, it appeared
about the thickness of a ship's mast, reach-
ing from the sea to a heavy dark cloud that
hung immediately over it. It approached
slowly, the cloud gradually increasing in
size. When it came near, we could observe
the water ascending in a spiral direction, and
the sea round its base boiling up in great
agitation. At this time it seemed about the
thickness of a hogshead. The tide was for-
tunately out; and upon crossing the reef,
about an hour after its first appearance, the
column broke, and such a mass of water fell,
that the sea in the harbour was raised at
least three feet upon the beach. No squall
was experienced, nor did any rain fall. Hun-
dreds of dead fish were picked up upon the
reef, and along shore, after it broke. I have
seen several water-spouts at sea, and one
that was nearly on board the ship in which
I was, but none of them at all equal in mag-
nitude to this.

383&75B

160 VOTAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

The natives quitted their houses, and fled
with the utmost precipitation in a direction
opposite to that in which it approached.
I was informed, that a few years before, one
had broken on the north side of the island,
by which a number of houses were washed
away, and many people drowned.

In the month of November, the king was
pleased to grant me about sixty acres of land,
situated upon the Wymummee, or Pearl-wa-
ter, an inlet af the sea about twelve miles to
the west of Hanaroora. I immediately re*
moved thither ; and it being Macaheite time,
during which canoes are tabooed, I was car-
ried on men's shoulders. We passed by
foot-paths, winding through an extensive and
fertile plain, the whole of which is in the
highest state of cultivation. Every stream
was carefully embanked, to supply water for
the taro beds. Where there was no water,
the land was under crops of yams and sweet
potatoes. The roads and numerous houses
are shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and the sides
of the mountains covered with *wood to a
great height We halted two or three times,
and were treated by the natives with the ut-
most hospitality. My farm, called Wyman-

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 101

noo, was upon the east side of the river, four
or five miles from its mouth, Fifteen peo-
ple, with their families, resided upon it, who
cultivated the ground as my servants. There
were three houses upon the property ; hut I
found it most agreeable to live with one of
my neighbours, and get what I wanted from
my own land. This person's name was Wil-
liam Stevenson, a native of Borrowstounness.
He had been a convict, and escaped from
New South Wales; but was, notwithstand-
ing, an industrious man, and conducted him-
self in general with great propriety. He had
married a native, and had a family of several
children* He was the first who introduced
into the island the mode of distilling a spirit
from the tee-root, of which, however, he be-
came so fond, that the king was obliged to
deprive him of his still. When I knew him
he had bound himself by an oath, not to
taste spirits except at the new-year, at which
time he indulged to the greatest excess. He
chiefly employed himself in his garden, and
had a large stock of European vegetables.

In the end of February, I heard there was
a ship at Hanaroora, and. went up with a
canoe-load of provisions, wishing to provide
myself with clothes, and, if possible, a few

102 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

books. She proved to be the Duke of Port-
land, South-sea whaler, bound for England.
When I learned this, I felt the wish to see
my native country and friends once more so
strong, that I could not resist the opportuni-
ty that now offered. In addition to these
motives, the state of my feet had of late
given me considerable uneasiness ; the sores
had never healed, and I was anxious for me-
dical assistance, in the hopes of having a
cure performed. I was, indeed, leaving a
situation of ease, and comparative affluence,
for one where, labouring under the disadvan-
tage of the loss of my feet, I knew I must
earn a scanty subsistence. I was a tolerable
sailmaker ; and I knew that, if my sores heal-
ed, I could gain a comfortable livelihood at
that employment. These hopes were never
realized ; the state of my limbs renders me
quite unable to hold a bolt-rope, and necessi-
ty has compelled me to betake myself to a
more precarious and less agreeable occupa-
tion.

The king was on board the ship at the
time, and I asked his permission to take my
passage home. He inquired my reasons for
wishing to quit the island, and whether I had
any cause of complaint. I told him 1 had

VOYAGE BOUND THE WORL&. 103

none ; that I was sensible I was much better
here than I could be any where else, but that
I was desirous to see my friends once more.
He said, if his belly told him to go, he would
do it ; and that if mine told me so, I was at
liberty.

He then desired me to give his compli-
ments to King George. I told him that,
though born in his dominions, I had never
seen King George ; and that, even in the
city where he lived, there were thousands
who had never seen him. He expressed
much surprise at this, and asked if he did not
go about amongst his people, to learn their
wants, as~ he did ? I answered, that he did
not do it himself, but that he had men who
did it for him. Tamaahmaah shook his head
at this, and said, that other people could
never do it so well as he could himself.

He sent a handsome cloak of feathers by
Captain Spence as a present to his majesty,
accompanied by a letter, which I heard him
dictate to the captain. The purport of it was,
to remind him of Captain Vancouver's pro-
mise, that a man-of-war, armed with brass
guns, and loaded with European articles,
should b$ sent to him ; and added, that he
was sorry he was so far away that he could

104 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

not help him in his wars; and concluded, by
requesting his acceptance of the cloak as a
proof of his regard.

Having procured the king's permission to
depart, I went on shore to take leave of
my friends, particularly Isaac Davis, and my
patroness the queen, who had always treated
me with the utmost kindness. On this oc-
casion she presented me with several valua-
ble mats to sleep upon on board the ship.

It will be believed that I did not leave
Wahoo without the deepest regret. I had
now been thirteen months upon the island;
during which time I had experienced nothing
but kindness and friendship from all ranks —
from my much-honoured master, the king,
down-to the lowest native. A crowd of peo-
ple attended me to the boat; unaccustomed
to conceal their feelings, they expressed them
with great vehemence ; and I heard the la-
mentations of my friends on shore loqg after
I had reached the ship.
. We sailed next day, being the 4 th of >
March.

YOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 106

CHAPTER IX.

Description of Wahoo— Extent— Whyteete bay— Account
of Tamaahmaah's navy — Town and harbour of HanA-
roora — Bass's harbour— Wymumme, or Pearl-river— -
State of cultivation — Breed of cattle — Account of the

' white people resident on the island.

The island of Wahoo lies about seven
leagues to the northwest of Morotai, and
about thirty from Owhyhee, in the same di-
rection ; it is nearly forty miles in length from
northwest to southeast, and about half that
extent in breadth.

Although only of secondary size, it has
become the most important island in the
groupe, both on account of its superior fer-
tility, and because it possesses the only se-
cure harbour to be met with in the Sand-
wich islands,

In consequence of this, and of the facility
with which fresh provisions can be procured,
almost every vessel* that navigates the north
Pacific puts in here to refit. This is proba-

* During the thirteen months the 'author remained on
the island, there were at least twelve ships called at Wa-
hoo, of which two were English, the Duke of Portland,
Captain Spence, and the Otter, Jobelin,— one Russian, the
Neva, — and the remainder Americans, viz. the Katherine,
Blanchard; O'Kean, Winship; Otter, Hill; Vancouver,

106 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

bly the principal reason why the king has
chosen it as his place of residence ; perhaps
the vicinity to Atooi and Onehow, the only
islands independent of himself, and the con-
quest of which he is said to meditate, is an-
other and no less powerful motive.

The south coast of the island extends from
Diamond-hill on the east to Barbers' Point*
on the west, a distance of about twenty-four
miles. A range of mountains runs almost
parallel to the shore, from which it is separa-
ted by a fertile plain, which varies in breadth;
at Hanarooa, where it is broadest, -the dis-
tance from the sea to the mountains is about
five miles.

A reef of coral runs along the whole extent
of this shore within a quarter of a mile of the
land; the greatest part of it dries at low
water, and in the inside it is in many places
too shallow even for canoes, except at full
tide.f

Swift; Liddy, Brown; Dromo, Woodward; and three or
four more when he was at Peart-river, whose names he
does not remember.

* Captain Portlocke. distinguishes the first of these points
by the name of Point Dick, and the latter by. that of Point
Banks. — Portlocke y p. 75.

f Captain Broughton mentions a harbour which he sur-
reyed, called Fair Haven, which lies five or six miles E. s.
£. of Whyteete ; it is formed by an opening through the

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLP. 167

Whyteete "bay, where Captain Vancou-
rer anchored, is formed by the land falling
back from the southern promontory of the
island, called by the white people Diamond-
hill. It is open to the south one-half of the ~
compass, and there being no channel, ships,
are obliged to anchor on the outside of the
reef.

Tamaahmaah formerly resided at this
place, and great part of his* navy were haul-
ed up on the shore round the bay. I count*
ed more than thirty vessels ; they are kept
with the utmost care, having sheds built over
them, their spars laid alongside, and their
rigging and cables preserved in stores.

They are chiefly sloops and schooners,
under forty tons burden, and have all been
built by his own carpenters, principally na-
tives, under the directions of an Englishman
of the name of Boyd.

reefs, with a clear channel, in a n. n. e. direction. The
wind generally blows fresh out of it, rendering it necessa-
ry to warp in, as there is not room for working. The har-
bour, though of small extent, is safe and convenient, with
five fathoms sandy bottom within the spits. A line stream '
of fresh water empties itself at the head. It was discover-
ed in 1794 by Mr. Brown, master of the Butter worth, the
same who was afterwards murdered by the natives at
lis place.-?* F&. BroughtorC* Voyage, p. 39.

108 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

♦

He possesses one ship of about two hun-
dred tons, called the Lilly Bird. This -ves-
sel was originally an American, which arrived
{torn the coast of California in a leaky con-
dition. He purchased her from the captain,
by giving his largest schooner in exchange,
and paying the difference in dollars* She

* was.re paired by his own carpenters, and laid
up at Hanaroora, alongside a wharf built for
the purpose. The remainder of his fleet,
ten or twelve more, were hauled up at the
same place, except one small sloop, which
he kept as a packet between Wahoo and

• Owhyhee* She Was navigated by native
seamen,' under the command of an English-
man, of the name of Clerk, who had former-
ly been mate of the Lilly Bird.

Three miles to the west of Whyteete is
the town of Hanaroora, now the capital of
the island, and residence of the king* The
harbour is formed by the reef, which shelters
it from the sea, and ships can ride within in
safety, in any weather, upon a fine sandy
bottom. There is a good channel through
the reef, with three or four, fathoms water ;
v but if there is a swell it is not easily disco-
vered, as the sea often breaks completely
across* Pilots, however, are always to be

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 109

had ; John Hairbottle, captain of the Lilly
Bird, generally acted as such. The best
anchorage is in five fathoms water, about
two cables length from the shore, directly
in front of the village. Ships sometimes an-
chor on the outside of the reef, but they run
the risk of having their cables cut by the
coral.

The entrance to this harbour may pro-
bably, at no very distant period, be filled up
by the growth of the coral, which must be
rapid indeed, if Hairbottle, the pilot, was
correct, when he informed me, that he knew
a difference of three feet during the time he
had been at Hanaroora.*

A small river runs by the back of the vil-
lage, and joins the sea at the west side of the
harbour; owing to the flatness of the coun-
try, the water is brackish, and there is none
fresh to be had within several miles of the
place. Ships, however, can be supplied at
a moderate rate by the natives, who bring it
from the spring in calabashes.

Six miles to the westward is Bass's har-
bour, also formed by an entrance through

* Hairbottle had been fifteen years on the island, he was
mate of the Jackall, which arrived about the end of 1794.
— Vide Broughton.

1 10 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the reef; within it is well sheltered, with
good anchorage in five or six fathoms ; but
there being no village in the vicinity, it is
little frequented.*

Wymummc, or Pearl-river, lies about se-
ven miles farther to the westward ; this in-
let extends ten or twelve miles up the coun-
try. The entrance is not more than a quar-
ter of a mile wide, and is only navigable for
small craft ; the depth of water on the bar,
at the highest tides, not exceeding seven
feet: farther up it is nearly two miles
across. There is an isle in it, belonging to
Manina, the king's interpreter, in which he
keeps a numerous flock of sheep and goats.

Pearls and mother-of-pearl shells are found
here in considerable quantity. Since the
king has learned their value, he has kept

* This inlet it evidently the same which Captain Van*
Couver surveyed, and which, he says, is named Oporoah ;
finding that, in consequence of the bar, it was only navi-
gable for small craft, the survey was not continued. He
merely says, that within " it seemed to spread out, and
to terminate In two bays about a mile farther to the
northward." He mentions another opening to the east-
• ward, called by the natives Honoonoona, which must be
either Bass's harbour or Hanaroora. From the similari-
ty of the name, it is more probably the latter place ; but
he passed it without examination, being informed that it
Was shallower than the other inlet.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Ill

the fishing to himself, and employs divers for
the purpose.

Ten miles to the west of this is Barber's
Point, so called from the captain of a ship
wrecked there, the northwest extremity ©f
the island. It is very low, and extends a
considerable way into the sea.

The tides upon thia coast do not rise
more than four feet at springs; it is high
water about three at full and change of the
moon. The force of the currents is scarce*
ly perceptible.

The flat land along shore is highly culti-
vated ; taro root, yams, and sweet potatoes,
are the most common crops ; but taro forms
the chief object of their husbandry, being the
principal article of food amongst every class
of inhabitants.

The mode of culture is extremely labori-
ous, as it is necessary to have the whole field
laid under water ; it is raised in small patches,
which are seldom above a hundred yards
square ; these are surrounded by embank-
ments, generally about six feet high, the sides
of which are planted with sugar-canes, with
a walk at top ; the fields are intersected by
drains or aqueducts, constructed with great

112 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

labour and ingenuity, for the purpose of sup-
plying the water necessary to cover them.

The ground is first carefully dug and le-
velled, with a wooden spade, called maiai,
which the labourers use, squatting on their
hams and heels. After this it is firmly beat
down, by treading it with their feet till it is
close enough to contain water.

The plants are propagated by planting a
small cutting from the upper part of the root
with the leaves adhering. The water is then
let in, and covers the surface to the depth of
twelve or eighteen inches; in about nine
months they are ready for taking up ; each
plant sends forth a numer of shoots, or suck-
ers, all around. This mode of culture is par-
ticularly laborious, and in all the operations
those engaged are almost constantly up to
the middle in the mud.

Notwithstanding this, I have often seen
the king working hard in a taro patch. I
know not whether this was done with a view
of setting an example of industry to bis sub-
jects. Such exertion could scarcely be
thought necessary amongst these islanders,
who are certainly the most industrious peo-
ple I ever saw.

The potato and yam grounds are neatly

VOYAGE ROUND TOE WORLD. 11$

inclosed by stone walls, about eighteen inch-
es high. In addition to these native produc-
tions, Indian corn, and a great variety of gar-
den stuffs have been lately introduced, and
are cultivated with success, chiefly by the
white people.

When the islands were discovered, pigs
and dogs were the only useful animals they
possessed; but Tamaahmaah has paid so
much attention to the preservation of the
breeds left by Vancouver, and other naviga-
tors, that in a short time the stock of horn-
ed-cattle, horses, sheep, and goats, will be
abundant.

At Owhyhee I was informed that there?
were many hundreds of cattle running wild,
* and several in a domestic state. The king
had introduced the breed into Wahoo ; and
at the time I was there he had a herd - of
nine or ten upon the north side of the island.

Sheep and goats are already very nume-
rous* Several individuals had large flocks
of them. The queeb had one r consisting of
about one hundred and fifty ; and Manina had
several hundreds on the island in Pearl-river*.

The king had five horses, of which he wag;
very fond, and used frequently to go out oifc

10*

114 VOYAGE ROUND-THE WORLD.

horseback. I was informed there were still
more at Owhyhee.

The cattle lately introduced are pastured
upon the hills and those parts of the coun-
try not under cultivation, the fences not being
sufficient to confine them. The hogs are
kept in pens, and fed on taro leaves, sugar-
canes, and garbage.

. The chiefs are the proprietors of the soil,
and let the land in small farms to the lower
class, who pay them a rent in kind, general- ,
ly pigs, cloth, or mats, at four terms in the,
year.

At one time, during mf stay, there were
nearly sixty white people upon Wahoo alone,
but the number was constantly varying, and
was considerably diminished before my de-
parture. Although the great majority bad
been left by American vessels, not above
one-third of them belonged to that nation;
the rest were almost all English, and of these
six or eight were convicts, who had made
their 'escape from New South Wales.

Many inducements are held out to sailors
to remain here. If they conduct themselves
with propriety, they rank as chiefs, and are
entitled. to all the privileges of the order; at
all events, they are certain of being main*

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 115

tamed by some of the chiefs, who are al-
ways anxious to h^ve white people about
them.

The king has a considerable number in
his service, chiefly carpenters, joiners, ma-
sons, blacksmiths, and bricklayers; these he
rewards liberally with grants of fond. Some
of these people are sober and industrious ;
but this is far from being their general cha-
racter; on the contrary, many of them are
idle and dissolute, getting drunk whenever
an opportunity presents itself. They have
introduced distillation into the island; and
the evil consequences, both to the natives
and whites, are incalculable. It is no un-
common sight to see a party of them broach
a small cask of spirits, and sit drinking for
days till they see it out.

There are, however, a few exceptions to
this. William Davis, a Welshman, who re-
sided with Isaac Davis, used to rise every
morning at five, and go to his fields, where
he commonly remained till the same hour in
the evening. Thisjsingularity puzzled the
natives not a little ; but they accounted for
it, by supposing that he had been one of their
own countrymen, who had gpne to Caheite,

116 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

or England, after his death, and had now
come back to his native land.

There were no missionaries upon the
island during the time I remained in it, at
which I was often much surprised.

Most of the whites have married native
women, by whom they have families; but
they pay little attention either to the educa-
tion or to the religious instruction of their
children. I do not recollect having seen any
who knew more than the letters of the al-
phabet.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1J7

CHAPTER X.

Account of the natives — Personal appearance — Raoki
Power of the king— Priests — Capital punishments-
Mode of detecting theft — Religious belief— Places of
worship and ceremonies — Macaheite— Houses— Food
— A va— Spirits distilled from the tee-root— State of
the women— Marriages— -Dress— Manufactures — Nets
and lines— Modes ot fishing — Trade — Price of provi-
sions— Amusements— Funeral rites — Military — Pro-
gress in civilization — Account of Tamaahmaah and
family.

The manners and customs of the Sand-
wich islanders have been repeatedly de-
scribed by much abler observers ; but my
long residence has given me opportunities
of noticing many things which have escaped
others ; and to these I shall, as much as pos-
sible, confine my remarks.

The natives, although not tall, are stout
and robust in their make, particularly those
of the higher rank ; their complexion is nut-
brown, and they are extremely cleanly in
their persons. They are distinguished by
great ingenuity in all their arts and manu-
factures, as well as by a most persevering
industry.

They are divided into two great classes,

118 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the Erees, or chiefs, and the Cannakamow-
ree, or people. The former are the proprie-
tors of the land, the latter are all under the
dominion of some chief, for whom they work
or cultivate the ground, and by whom they
are supported in old age. They are not, how-
ever, slaves, or attached to the soil, but at
liberty to change masters when they think
proper.

The supreme government is vested in the
king, whose power seems to be completely
absolute. He is assisted by the principal
chiefs, whom he always keeps about his per-
son ; many of these have particular depart-
ments to k attend to ; one chief took charge
of the household, and appointed the different
surveys to be performed by every individual ;
another, named Coweeowranee, acted as pay-
master ; his province was to distribute wages
and provisions amongst the people in the
king's service.

An elderly chief, of the name of Naai, took
a general charge of the whole, and was, in
fact, prime minister. He was commonly calK
ed Billy Pitt by the white people, and was
by no means pleased when they addressed
him by any other appellation.

The principal duties of the executive were,

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 119

however, entrusted to the priests ; by them
the revenues were collected, and the laws
enforced. Superstition is the most powerful
engine by which the latter purpose is effect-
ed; actual punishment being rare. I knew
only one instance of capital punishment;
which was that of a man who had violated
the sanctity of the morai. Having got drunk,
he quitted it during taboo time, and entered
the house of a woman. He was immediately
seized, and carried back to the morai, where
his eyes were put out. After remaining two
days in this state, he was strangled, and his
body exposed before the principal idol.

Thq method of detecting theft or robbery,
affords a singular instance of the power of
superstition over their minds. The party
who has suffered the loss applies to one of
the priests, to whom he presents a pig, and
relates his story.

The following ceremony is then perform-
ed : the priest begins by rubbing two pieces
of green wood upon each other, till, by the
friction, a kind of powder, like snuff, is
produced, which is so hot, that, on being
placed in dry grass, and blown upon, it takes
fire ; with this a large pile of wood is kindled,
and allowed to burn a certain time. He then

120 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

takes three nuts, of an oily nature, called
tootooee ; having broken the shells, one of
the kernels is thrown into the fire, at which
time he says an anana, or prayer ; and while
the nut is crackling in the fire, repeats the
words Muckeero:o kanaka ai kooee, that is,
Kill or shoot the fellow. The same cere-
monies take place with each of the nuts, pro-
vided the thief docs not appear before they
are consumed.

This, however, but seldom happens ; the
culprit generally makes his appearance with
the stolen property, which is restored to the
owner, and the offence punished by a fine
of four pigs. He is then dismissed, with strict
injunctions not to commit the like crime in
future, under pain of a more severe penalty.
The pigs are taken to the morai, where they
are offered up as sacrifices, and afterwards
eaten by the priests.

Should it happen that the unfortunate
criminal docs not make his appearance du-
ring the awful ceremony, his fate is inevita-
ble ; had he the whole island to bestow, not
one word of the prayer could be recalled,
nor the anger of the Etooah appeased. The
circumstance is reported to the king, and
proclamation made throughout the island
that a certain person has been robbed, and

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 181

that those who are guilty have been prayed
to death.

So firm is their belief in the power of these
prayers, that the culprit pines away, refusing
to take any sustenance, and at last falls a
sacrifice to his credulity.

The priests also practice medicine. Bath-
ing is their great specific. If the patient is
too weak to be carried to the sea, he is wash-
ed with salt water. The oil extracted froifc
a nut, called tootooe, is used as a purgative ;
and a black mineral substance, reduced to
a powder, as an emetic. This is very pow-
erful in its effects-? half the quantity that can
be laid on a sixpence forming a sufficient
dose.

I have but few particulars to give of their
religious opinions. Their principal god, to
whom they attribute the creation of the world,
is called Etooah ; and they have seven or^
eight subordinate deities, whose images are
in the morai, and to whom offerings are mads
as well as to the Etooah. Their names I
cannot recollect.

They believe in a Future state, where they
will be rewarded or punished for their con-
duct in this life. Their belief in the efficacy
of prayer has already been remarked. Du-
ll

1*2 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

ring the time I lived with the king, it was
reported that some person had prayed him
to death ; in order to counteract the effects-
of this, the daughter of a chief- prostrated
herself before the house, and turning towards
the setting sun, prayed with great fervency.
I did not then understand the language, and
imagined that^he was addressing that lumi-
nary ; but William Moxely explained that
part to me. She said, How could the sun
rise and set, or the moon perform her revo-
lutions, if there were not some Superior Being
who regulated their motions.
' They have a tradition of a general deluge.
According to their account, the sea once over-
flowed the whole world, except Mouna Kaa,
in Owhyhee, and swept away all the inhabi-
tants but one pair, who saved themselve^on
that mountain, and are the parents of the
present race of mankind.

Their morais, or places of 'worship, con-
sist of one large house or temple, with some *
smaller ones round it, in which are the ima-
ges of their inferior gods. The tabooed, or
Consecrated precincts, are marked out by four
square posts, which stand thirty or fortjr
yards from the building. In the inside of the
principal house there is a screen or curtam

VOYAGE ROUND l THE WORLD. 123

of white cloth, hung across one end, within
which the image of Etooah is placed. When
sacrifices are offered, the priests and chiefs
enter occasionally within this space, going'in
at one side and out at the other. Although
present on one occasion, I did not enter this
recess, partly because I was doubtful of the
propriety of doing so, and also on account of
the difficulty! had in moving myself, and the
risk of getting my wounds injured among the
crowd.

On the outside are placed several images
made of wood, as ugly as can be well ima-
gined, having their mouths all stuck round
with dogs' teeth.

Their holidays took - place about four
times a month, and the ceremonies lasted
from sunset, on the day preceding, to sun-
rise on the following day ; during which no
person was permitted to pass the 'bounds of
the morai. This time was spent in prayer,
in sacrificing pigs, in eating the sacrifices,
and in conversation. I attended only once,
and was not, at that time, sufficiently master
of the language to understand the purport of
the prayers.

The priest continued ne&rly three hours,
in a very solemn manner, during lyhich the

124 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

most profound silence was preserved; in-
deed, the smallest noise of any kind, either
within the morai or in the neighbourhood,
would have been a proof that the Deity was
offended, and the prayer must have ceased ;
a proclamation was, therefore, made by the
public crier, whenever the king entered the
morai, ordering every animal near it to be
confined, otherwise they should be seized
and offered up as sacrifices. Those present
stood with their arms extended towards
heaven for aBout three quarters of an hour
at the beginning of the prayer, and the same
length of time at its conclusion. I was not
required to perform this part of the cere-
mony.

The number present did not exceed forty,
and were all of the higher rank. Women
are never permitted to attend on these occa-
sions.

Human sacrifices are offered upon their
going to war, but nothing of the kind took
place during my stay ; unless in the case al-
ready mentioned, of the man punished for
breaking the taboo, and whose body was ex-
posed before the idol.

During the period called Macaheite, wfiich
lasts a whole month, and takes place in

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLB. 1*5*

November, the priests are employed in col-
lecting the taxes, which are paid by the
chiefs in proportion to the extent of their
territories; they consist of mats, feathers,
and the produce of the country. The peo-
ple celebrate this festival by dancing, wrest-
ling, and other amusements*

The iing remains in the moral for the
whole period ; before entering it, a singular
§ ceremony takes place. He is obliged to
stand till three spears are darted at him :
He must catch the first with his hand, and
with it tvard off the other two. This is not ^
a mere formality* The spear is throton with
the utmost force , and should the king lose
his life, there is no help for it.*

At the Macaheite, which happened when
I was on the island, the eldest son of Tamaah-
maah, a youth about fifteen, was invested
withTroyal honours, and entitled to the same

marks of respect as his father. What share

* Tamaahmaah is so dexterous in the use of the spear,
that he probably runs little risk in thus exposing himself.
Vancouver relates, that in a sham-fight he saw him ward
off six spears that were hurled at him almost at the same
instant. " Three he caught as they were flying with one
•hand ; two he (broke by parrying them with Tiis spear;
and the sixth, by a trifling inclination of his body, passed .
harmless."— Vancouver, Vol. III. p. 254.

11*

126 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

he had in the government I did not learn ;
but I observed no alteration in the exercise
of the king's authority.

The houses of the natives are of the sim-
plest form ; they are oblong, with very low
side-walls, and high- thatched roofs ; within
they 'are not divided into separate apart-
ments, nor have they any tables or seats.

It is only by size that the houses of the
chiefs are distinguished from those of the
lower orders, for the same barn-like shape
is universal. They are, however, kept very
clean ; and their household utensils, consist-
ing of wooden dishes and calabashes, are
hung, neatly arranged, upon the walls.
While the floors of the meaner houses are
bare, except the place for sleeping, where a
few mats are spread, those of the higher or-
ders are entirely covered over, with mats,
many of which are worked with great ele-
gance into different patterns. At one end
a platform, raised about three feet from the
ground, which extends the whole breadth of
the apartment, is spread with a layer of
rushes, and covered with mats. This forms
the sleeping place for the upper part of the
family; the attendants sleep at the opposite
end.

VOYAGE ROUND THE .WORLD. 127

As the two sexes never eat together, the
chiefs have always a separate eating-house,
and even* the lower ranks have one to every
six or seven families for the men. The wo-
men take their food in the same houses fn
which they sleep.

Few of the houses, except the largest,
have any windows; the light being admitted
fay the door, which is seldom closed. The
dwellings of the upper ranks are generally
surrounded by a paling. In all of them the
utmost attention to cleanliness prevails.

Their mode of cooking has been often de-
scribed. Poey, or taro-pudding, which is
the principal food of all ranks, is prepared
by baking the root in a pit with hot stones, >
upon which water is poured. It is after-
wards scraped, mashed, and mixed with cold
water. When newly made, it is not unpala-
table, but it soon turns sour.

Fish are often eaten raw, seasoned with
salt water. When cooked, they are either
done in their usual manner, under ground, or
broiled, by ptftting them, wrapt in leaves,
upon the fire. When the leaves are burnt,
they consider them ready.

They preserve pork by taking out the-
bones, and rubbing it well with salt ; after
which it is made up in rolls, and dried.

188 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

They frequently eat with their pork a kind
of pudding made of taro-root, which is pre-
viously cut in slices, and dried in the sun;
it keeps a great length of time, and is a good
substitute for bread. In this state it is pre-
ferred by the white people. The natives
preserve it for taking to sea, by mashing
and forming it into a solid paste, when it is
wrapped in leaves, and will keep fresh for
five or six weeks.

The sugar-cane, which they chew, is also
a general article of food.

Instead of candles, the tootooee-nut is
used, which, being of an oily nature, yields
a considerable quantity of light. It . grows
upon a small tree, and is about the size of
a horse-chestnut. When pulled, they are
thrown into water, and thqge that sink are
reckoned sound ; they are then baked under
ground, and their shells broken off, in which
state they are kept till required. When used
as candles, they string twenty or thirty upon '
a slit of bamboo, each of which will burn
five or six minutes; but they require con-
stant trimming, and it is necessary to reverse
the torch whenever a nut is consumed, that
Ate one under it may catch fire. It must,

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 1*9

therefore, bg held by a person whose busi-
ness it is to keep it always in order*

This nut, when pressed, yields an oil well
adapted for mixing with paint. The black
colour, by which their canoes are painted, it
produced by burning the nuts after they arc
pressed, and by the cinders of the torches,
which are carefully preserved for the pur-
pose ; these are reduced tojpowder, and mix-
ed with oil.

Ava, with which the natives were former-
ly wont to intoxicate themselves, is now giv-
ing way to the use of ardent spirits. I never
saw it used, except as a medicine to prevent
corpulency, and is said to be an effectual re-
medy. It causes a white scurf to strike out
upon the skin, somewhat like the dry scurvy.

The spirit distilled from the tee-root now
usurps its place, and I fear the consequence*
will be still more pernicious.

That plant grows wild in the upper part ;
of the country, and varies from the size of a
carrot, to that of a man's thigh. It is put
into a pit, amongst heated stones, and cover-
ed with plantain and taro leaves, through
these a small hole is made, and water pour-
ed in; after which the whole 13 closed up
again, and allowed to remain twenty-four

f *

ISO VOYAGE ROUND THE ^ORLD.

hours. When the root has undergone this
prpcess, the juice tastes as sweet as molas-
ses. It is then taken out, bruised, and put
into a canoe to ferment ; and in five or six
days is ready for distillation.

Their stills are formed out of iron pots,
which they procure from American ships,
and which they enlarge to any size, by fixing
several tier of calabashes above them, with
their bottoms sawed off, and the joints well
luted. From the uppermost, a wooden tube
connects with a copper cone, round the in-
side of which is a ring with a pipfc to carry
off the spirit. The cone is fixed into a hole in
the bottom of a tub filled with water, which
serves as a condenser.

By this simple apparatus a spirit is pro-
duced, called lumi, or rum, and which is/by
no means harsh or unpalatable. Both whites
and natives are unfortunately too much ad- m
dieted to it. Almost every one of the chiefs
has his own still.

Smoking tobacco is another luxury of
which the natives are very found. The plant
grows in abundance upon the islands, and
they use it in a green state. In their tobac*-
co-pipes they display their usual taste and in-
genuity. The tube is made of the hollow

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 131

•tern of a kind of vine, fixed to an iron bowl,
which is* inserted into hard wood. The
stem is covered with rings of ivory and tur-
tle-shell, placed alternately ; the whole being
kept firmly together at the top by an ivory
mouth-piece.

The women are subject to many restric-
tions from which the men are exempted.
They are not allowed to attend the morai
upofi taboo days, nor at these times are they
permitted to go out in a canoe. They are
never permitted to eat with the men, except
when at sea, and then not out of the same
dish. Articles of delicacy, such as pork, tur-
tie, shark, cocoa-nuts, bananas or plantains,
are also forbidden. Dog's flesh and fish
were the only kinds of animal food lawful
for them to eat; but since the introduction
of sheep and goats, \vhich are not Jtaly>oed,
the ladies have less reason to complain.

Notwithstanding the vigour with which
these ceremonies are generally observed, the
women very seldom scruple to break them,
when it can be done in secret ; they often
swim off to ships at night during the taboo;
and I have known them eat of the forbidden
delicacies of pork and sharks' flesh. What
would be the consequence of a discovery I

1S£ VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

know not ; but I once saw the queen trans-
gressing in this respect, and was strictly en-
joined to secrecy, as she said it was as much
as her life was worth.

Their ideas of marriage are very loos*;
either party may quit the other when they
tire or disagree. The lower classes, ia ge-
neral, content themselves with one wife;
but they are by no means confined to that
number, and the chiefs have frequently se-
veral. Tamaahmaah had two, besides a
very handsome girl, the daughter of a chief,
educating for him. One elderly chief, Co*
weeooranee, had no fewer than fifteen.
They are. very jealous of any improper con-
nexion between natives and their wives ; but
the case is widely different with respect to
their visiters, where connexion of that kind
is reckoned the surest 'proof of friendship,
and they are always anxious to strengthen it
by that tie.

The virtue of the king's wives is* however,
most scrupulously guarded; each of them
having a male and a female attendant, whose
duty it is to watch them on all occasions ;
should it be discovered that any of the queens
have been unfaithful, these attendants are
punished with death, unless they have give*
the first -intimation.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 133

Immediately after child-birth, women are
obliged to retire to the woods, where they re-
main ten days, and must not be seen by the
men. The queen, who had a daughter whilst
I was there, had a house for the purpose of
retirement; but, in general, they have no
other shelter but what the woods afford.
They also retire in the same manner threo
days in every month.* ,

A simple garment, called Pow, forms the
principal part of the dress of the women; it
consists of a piece of cloth about one yard
broad and three in length, wrapped several
times round the waist, with the end tucked in
below, and reaching to the calf of the leg;
in cold weather, they throw another piece
of cloth, like a plaid, over their shoulders.
Round the neck they often wear wreaths of
the leaves of a fragrant plant called miri,
resembling those of the vine.

* Captain Lisianafcy relates the same practice as preva-
lent among the Aleutian women ; if he is not mistaken in
ascribing it to them instead it the Sanftwich islanders, or
if our author has not fallen into the opposite error, the
coincidence is remarkaMe.

Campbell, upon being questioned, related several in-
stances of its having occurred in Wahoo. He cannot. say
as to the practice of the Aleutian islands.

134 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

An ivory ornament, called Palava, is very
generally worn, suspended by a hair neck-*
lace, neatly plaited into small cords. The
hole through which it is passed is large
enough to admit the thumb, and the plaits
are so numerous as to fill it entirely.

The hair is combed back in front, and
plastered over with a kind of lime made from
burnt shells. This practice bleaches that on
the forehead nearly white.

Their heads are adorned with wreaths of
flowers taken from the stalk, and strung on
the stem of a small creeping plant. They
prefer purple, yellow, and white, and ar-
range them alternately three or four inches
of each colour. This is twined several times
round the head, and has a very elegant ap-
pearance. . ' ^

They are at great pains in ornamenting
themselves, for which purpose every female
is provided with a small mirror. All ranks
1 pay the utmost attention to personal clean-
liness. ' **

The dress of the men consists merely of
a small girdle, made of taper, called the Maro.
Upon great occasions, the chiefs wear elegant
cloaks and helmets of red and yellow fea-
thers.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 135

The cloth called taper is entirely manu-
factured by women, and is made from J the
bark of a tree, which is first steeped in water,
and then beat out with a piece of wood,
grooved or furrowed like a crimping machine.
The bark is laid upon another piece of wood,
grooved like the former. As these two in-
struments are at right angles during the ope-
ration, the marks in the cloth are crossed
like warp and woof

It is coloured with the juice of berries,
laid on with a piece of turtle shell, shaped
like a knife, or with ^ brush, formed by
chewing the end of a slip of bamboo. In
this manner it is tinged brown, green, blue,
and black; to produce a yellow, the cloth is
dint in a dye prepared by boiling the cone
of a tree in water. They often pstint a va-
riety of patterns, in which they display great
taste and fanc^.

This cloth, from its texture, is, when wet-
ted, extremely apt to get damaged, in which
state it tears like moist paper; great care,
therefore, is always taken to keep it dry, or
to have it carefully dried when it is wetted.
When they swim off to ships, they hold their
clothes out of the water in one hand, occa-
sionally changing it as it becomes fatigued.

13C VOYAGE ROUND TBE WORLD.

The mats with which the floors of the
houses are covered, are also manufactured
by the women. They are made of rushes,
or a kind of broad-leaved grass, split at the
stem, and are worked in a variety of pat-
terns.

The natives are most dexterous fishers,
and their implements are constructed with
much ingenuity. The hooks are sometimes
made o( mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell,
hut those procured from ships are coming
into more general use.

Their nets and lines are spun from the
fibre of a broad-leaved plant called Ourana,
similar in appearance to sedge or flags; it is
pulled green, and the outside stripped off
with a tortoise-shell knife, after which it is
steeped in water ; the fibres are separated
by the nail, and spun into lines, by rolling
them between the hand and the thigh. The
lines have sometimes two strands, and some-
times three, and are much stronger than
those of hemp. They drag these lines after
their canoes, and in this manner take bo-
ne ttas, dolphins, and albicores. For the
hooks of their own manufacture bait is not
required, the mother-of-pearl shank serying

TOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 137

the same end. When wire-hooks are used,
they wrap a piece of white cloth round them*

The nets in which they take the flying
fish are made of twine of the same material.
They are about a hundred yards in length,
by three or four yards in breadth, and have
a large bag in the centre.

They are set like herring-nets, with the
upper edge floated by buoys of light wood,
whilst, the lower edge is kept under water
by weights of lead or iron. In order to pre-
vent the fish from flying over, branches of
trees are laid all along the head-line. When
properly extended, a canoe, at each end of
the net, gradually advances, forming it into
a circle, into which the fish are driven by a
number of canoes, who fill up the open side^
and beat the surface violently with branches.
When the canoes at each end of the net
meet, they gradually take it in, contracting
the circle till the fish are forced into the bag
in the centre.

In this manner prodigious numbers are
taken. I have known them return, after a
day's fishing, with ten or twelve canoeg
deeply leaded. Sometimes the net is so full
they cannot take it on board, and are obliged
to drag it after them to the shore.

12*

1S8 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

They have a singular method of catching
fish'by poison. This is done by means of aa
herb like heath, stripped of its bark, and
bruised ; with this they dive to the bottom,
and place it beneath the stones, where the
fish lie. The poison is so powerful, that in
a short time they sicken, and come up to the
surface. When taken they are instantly
gutted, in order that the poison in their
stomach may not affect the quality of the
fish.

The occupiers, or proprietors of land are
entitled to the privilege of fishing upon their
own shores as far as the tallest man in the
island can wade at low water, and they may'
exercise that right at all seasons ; but beyond
•that the sea is tabooed, except at two pe-
riods in the year, of six weeks each, during
which unlimited fishing is allowed ; at these
times it is the general employment of the na-
tives, and they cure enough to serve them
through the tabooed season.

In every article of their manufacture these
islanders display an extraordinary degree
of neatness and ingenuity, considering the
simplicity of the tools with which they work.

The tool in most general use is a kind of
1 tomahawk, or adze, called toe; it was for-

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 13*

merly . made of hard polished stone, but is
now universally made of iron. To form it,
..they lash a thin plate of iron, from one to
four inches broad, and five or six long, to
a branch which has a piece of the stem at-
tached to it Plane irons are much in request
for this purpose ; but the toe is frequently
made of an old hoop.

This, with a piece of coral for a file, is
almost the only tool used in the construction
of their houses, canoes, and implements of
wood.

The circular wooden dishes, containing
from half a pint, to five or six gallons, are
formed with these simple tools, and are as
neatly made as if they had been turned in -a
lathe. It is astonishing how soon they ac-
quire the useful arts from their visiters.
Many of the natives are employed as car-
penters, coopers, blacksmiths, and tailors,
and do their work as perfectly as Europeans.

In the king's forge there were none but
native blacksmiths ; they had been taught
by the armourer of a ship, who quitted the
island while I was there.

Almost all their dealings are conducted by
barter; they know the value of dollars, and
are willing to take them in exchange, but

140 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

they seldom appear again in circulation, be-
ing always carefully hoarded up.

Vessels are supplied with fresh provisions,
live-stock, salt, and other articles of outfit,
for which they give in return cloth, fire-arms,
and ammunition, the teeth of the sea-lion,
carpenters 9 tools, hardware, and, in general,
European articles of every description*

Sandal-wood, pearls, and mother-of-pearl
shells, are also the* produce of these islands,
and are frequently purchased for the China
market.

It is probable tfrat the Russians .will, in fu-
ture, derive from hence the principal sup*
plies of provisions for their settlements on
the Fox islands, and northwest coast of Ame*
rica, and even Kamschatka.

With the island of Atooi the natives carry
en a considerable trade. The inhabitants of
Wahoo excel in making taper or cloth, whilst
those of Atooi excel in canoes, paddles, and
spears, %tnd they very often make exchanges
in these articles.

Owing to the number of ships" that are
constantly touching at these islands, provi-
sions are by no means cheap. A pig is esti-
mated by its length ; the largest size, called
poa-nana,or fathom-pig, measures that length:

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. HI

from the snout to the rump, and is valued at
two axes; a junk of the thickest part of the
sea-horse >tooth, five or six inches long, a
yard and a half of blue cloth, or five dollars.

Those that measure from the elbow to the
opposite hand, are valued at one axe, or about
half the price of the larger size, A sheep
or goat may be had for a smaller piece of
ivory ; a maro, or a pair of fowls, for a knife,
a pair of scissars, or small mirror.

-From their earliest years, the natives spend
much of their spare time in the water, and
constant practice renders them so dexterous,
that they seem as much at their ease in that
element as on land ; they often swim several
miles off to ships, sometimes resting upon a
plank shaped like an anchor stock, and pad-
dling with their hands, but more frequently
without any assistance whatever.

Although sharks are numerous in these
seas, I never heard of any accident from them,
which I attribute to the dexterity with which
they avoid their attacks.

Throwing the top shoots of the sugar-cane
at each other, and catching them in their
flight, is a favourite amusement, the practice
of which tends to render them very expert in
the use of the spear.

142 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dancing, wrestling, and foot races, are also

common amusements, particularly at Maca-
heite time.

• The dances are principally performed by-
women, who form themselves into solid
squares, ten or twelve each way, and keep
time to the sound of the drum, accompanied
by a song in which they all join. In dancing
they seldom move their feet, but throw them-
selves into a variety of attitudes, sometimes
all squatting, and at other times springing up*
at the same instant. A man in front, with
strings of shells on his ancles and wrists, with
which he marks time, acts as fugel-man. On
these occasions the women display all their
finery, particularly in European clothes, if
they are so fortunate as to possess any. They
received great applause from the spectators,
who frequently burst into immoderate fits of
laughter, at particular parts of the song.

They have a game somewhat resembling
draughts, but more complicated, tt is play-
ed upon a board about twenty-two inches by
fourteen, painted black, with white spots, on
which the men are placed ; these consist of
black and white pebbles, eighteen upon each
side, and the game is won by the capture of
the adversary's pieces.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 143

Tamaahmaah excels at this game. I have
seen him sit for hours playing with his chiefs,
giving an occasional smile, but without utter-
ing a word.. I could not play, but William
Moxely, who understood it well, told me that
he had seen none who could beat the king.

• The game of draughts is now introduced,
and the natives play it uncommonly well.

Flying kites is another favourite amuse-
ment. They make them of taper, of the
usual shape, but of uncommon size, many of
them being fifteen or sixteen feet in length,
and six or seven in breadth ; they have often
three or four hundred fathorii of line, and are
so difficult to hold, that they are obliged to
tie them to trees.

The only employment I ever saw Tamena
the queen, engaged in was making these
kites. ,

A theatre was erected under the direction
of James Beattie, the king's block-maker,
who had been at one time on the stage in
England. The scenes representing a castle
and a forest were constructed of different
coloured pieces of taper, cut out and pasted
together. *

I was present on one occasion, at the per-
formance of Oscar and Malviaa. This piece

144 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

was originally a pantomime, but here it had
words written for it by Beattie. The part
of Malvina was performed by the wife of
Isaac Davis. As her knowledge of the Eng-
lish language was very limited, extending
. only to the words yes and no, her speeches
were confined to these monosyllables. She,
however, acted her part with great applause*
The Fingalian heroes were represented by
natives clothed in the Highland garb, afeo
made out of taper, and armed with muskets.
The audience did not seem to understand
the play well, but were greatly delighted
with the after-piece, representing a naval
engagement. The ships were armed with
bamboo cannon, and each of them fired a
broadside, by means of a train of thread
dipped in salt-petre, which communicated
with each gun, after which one of the vessels
blew up. Unfortunately, the explosion set
fire to the forest, and had nearly consumed
the theatre. v

The ceremonies that took place upon the
death of a chief have been already described.
The bodies of the dead are always disposed
of secretly, and I never could learn where
they were interred. My patroness, the queen,
preserved the bones of her father, wrapt up

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 146

in a piece of cloth. When she slept in her
own house they were placed by her side ;
in her a bsence they were placed on a feather-
bed she had received from the captain of a
ship, and which was only used for this pur-
pose. When I asked her the reason of this
singular custom, she replied, " it was because
she loved her father so dearly."

When the king goes to war, I understand
that every man capable of bearing arms must
follow his chief; for which purpose they are

all trained from their youth to the use of
arms. I saw nothing like a regular armed

force, except a guard of about fifty men, who

constantly did duty at the king's residence.

There were about twenty of them on guard

daily, but the only sentry which they posted

was at the powder magazine. At night he

regularly called out every hour, " All's well. 9 *

They were armed with muskets and bay-
onets, but had no uniform ; their cartridge-
boxes, which were made by the king's work-
men, are of wood, about thirteen inches long,
rounded to the shape of the body, and cover-
ed with hide.

I have seen those guards at their exer-
cise; rapidity, and not precision, seemed to
be their great object. The men stood at

146 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

extended order, and fired as fast as they
could, beating the butt upon the ground, and
coming to the recover without using the
ramrod ; each man gave the word " fire,"
before he drew the trigger.

The natives of these islands have been
accused of being cannibals, but, as far as I
could judge, either from my own observa-
tion, or from the inquiries I made, I believe
the accusation to be perfectly destitute of
foundation. Isaac Davis, who had the best
means of knowing, having resided there more
than twenty years, and who had been present
and borne a share in all their wars, declared
to me most pointedly, that " it was all lies —
that there never had been cannibals there
•ince they were islands."

From a perusal of the foregoing pages, it
will be seen, that these islanders have acquired
many of the useful arts, and are making ra-
pid progress towards civilization. Much must
be ascribed, no doubt, to their natural inge-
nuity and unwearied industry ; but great
part of the merit must also be ascribed to the
unceasing exertions of Tamaahmaah, whose
enlarged mind has enabled him to appreciate
the advantages resulting from an intercourse
with Europeans, and he has prosecuted that
object with the utmost eagerness.

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 147

The unfortunate death of Captain Cook,
and the frequent murders committed by the
natives on navigators, particularly in Witioo,
in which Lieutenant Hengist, and Mr. Gooch,
astronomer of the Daedalus, Messrs. Brown
and Gordon, masters of the ships Jackall and
Prince Lee Bpo, lost their lives, gave such
ideas of the savage nature of the inhabitants,
that for many years few ships would venture
to touch at these islands.*

But since Tamaahmaah has established
his power, he has regulated his conduct by
such strict rules of justice, that stranger*
find themselves as safe in his port as in those
of any civilized nation.

Although always anxious to induce white
people to remain, he gives no encouragement

* The editor has not thought himself at liberty to alte?
the orthography of the king's name adopted by Vancou-
rer and Broughton. Although, to his ear, it would be
more correctly Tameamea. Every voyager has spelt it
in a different manner. Captain King has spelt it Maiha
Mahia ; Mr. Sam well, the surgeon of the Discovery, who
published an account of Captain Cook's death, Camea-
mea ; Portlocke, Comaamaa ; M eares, Tomy homy haw ;
Vancouver and Broughton, Tamaahmaah ; Lisiansky,
Hameamea ; Langsdorf, Tomooma ; and Turnbull, Ta-
matfanva. As the hard sound of Cand 7* is scarcely to be
distinguished in the pronunciation of the language, and
the h is silent, the reader, from a comparison, will be able
to ascertain the most correct way.

148 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

~to desertion, nor does he ever attempt to de-
tain those who wish to depart.

Ii#1809 the king seemed about fifty years
of age; he is a stout, well-made man, rather
darker in the complexion than the natives
usually are, and wants two of his front teeth*
The expression of his countenance is agree-
able, and he is mild and affable in his man-
ners, and possesses great warmth of feeling ;
for I have seen him shed tears upon the de-
parture of those to whom he was attached,
and has the art of attaching others to himself.
Although a conqueror, he is extremely popu-
lar among his subjects ; and not without rea-
son, for, since he attained the supreme pow-
er, they have enjoyed repose and prosperity*
He has amassed a considerable treasure in.
dollars, and possesses a large stock of Euro-
pean articles of every description, particular-
ly arms and ammunition; these he has ac-
quired by trading with the ships that call at
the islands. He understands perfectly well
how to make a bargain; but is unjustly ac-
cused of wishing to over-reach in his deal-
ings. I never knew of his taking any undue
advantages; on the contrary, he is distin-
guished for upright and honourable conduct
in all his transactions. War, not commerce*

•VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 14$

seems to be his principal motive in forming
so extensive a navy. Being at peace, his
fleet was laid up inordinary during the whole
time of my stay. When he chooses tp fit
it out, he will find no difficulty in manning his
vessels. Independently of the number of
white people he has constantly about him,
and who are almost all sailors, he will find,
even among his own subjects, many good
seamen. He encourages them to make voy*
ages in the ships that are constantly touch-
ing at the islands, and many of them have
been as far as China, the northwest coast of
America, and even the United States. In a
very short time they become useful hands,
and continue so as long as they remain in
warm climates ; but they are not capable of
standing the effects of cold.

During my stay the building of the navy
was suspended, the king's workmen being
employed in erecting a house, in the Euro-
pean style, for his residence at Hanaroora.
When I came away, the walls were as high
as the top of the first story.

His family consisted of- the two queens,
who are sisters, and a young girl, the daugh-
ter of a chief, destined to the same rank; He
had two sons alive, one about fifteen, and the

13*

150 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD; •

other about ten years of age, and a daughter,,
born when I was upon the island.

The queen was delivered about midnight,
and the event was instantly announced by a
salute of sixteen guns, being a round of the
battery in front of the house.
. I was informed by Isaac Davis, that his
eldest son had been put to death by his or-
ders, in consequence of criminal connexion,
with one of his wives* This took plack be-
fore he fixed his residence at Wahoo.

His mode of life has already been describ-
ed. He sometimes dressed himself in the
European fashion, but more frequently laid
aside his clothes, and gave them to an atten-
dant, contenting himself with the maro. An-
other attendant carried a fan, made of feath-
ers, for the purpose of brushing away the
flies; whilst a third carried his spit-box,
which was set round with human teeth, and
had belonged, as I was told, to several of his
predecessors.

It is said that he was. at one time strongly
addicted to the use of ardent spirits, but
that, finding the evil consequences of the
practice, he had resolution enough to aban-
don it. I never saw him pass the bounds of
the strictest temperance*

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. tsi

His queen, Tamena, had not the same re-
solution ; and although, when he was present,
she durst not exceed, she generally availed
herself of his absence in the morai to indulge
her propensity for liquor, and seldom stop-
ped short of intoxication. Two Aleutian
women had been left on the island, and were
favourite companions of hers. It was a com-
mon amusement to make them drunk; but, by
the end of the entertainment, her majesty
was generally in the same situation.

tit VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER XL

Departure from Wahoo — Pass Otaheite— Double Cape
Horn— Arrival at Rio Janeiro— Transactions there, du-
ring a residence of nearly two years— Voyage home.

The ship in which I left the Sandwich
Islands was called the Duke of Portland,
commanded by Captain Spence. She had
procured a cargo of about one hundred and
fifty tons of seal oil, and eleven thousand
skins, at the island of Guadaloupe, on the
coast of California, and had put into Wahoo
for the purpose of procuring refreshments.

Every thing being ready, we sailed from
Hanaroora on the 4th of March, and stood:
to the southward with pleasant weather.

In the beginning of April we descried the
mountains of Otaheite, but did not touch
at that island.

About a week before we doubled Cape
Horn, we saw two large whales, and the
boats were hoisted out in the hope of taking
them, but it began to blow so hard that the
attempt proved unsuccessful.

Early in May we passed Cape Horn, the
captain stood as far south as the latitude of

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 163

60, and we never saw the land. Although
the season was far advanced we did not ex-
perience the smallest difficulty in this part of
the voyage.

A few days afterwards we made the Falk-
land islands ; the land is of great height, and
seems perfectly barren.

Upon the 25th we saw, the coast of Bra-
zil, and next day entered the harbour of Rio
Janeiro.

Being apprehensive of a mortification in
my legs, I applied for admission into the
English hospital, which is situated in a small
island that lies off the harbour. When Cap-
tain Spence, who took me thither in his boat,
mentioned that I had lost my feet in the ser-
vice of the Americans, he was informed, that
since that was the case, I must apply to them
to take care of me.

I then went on board an American brig,
called the Lion, the captain of which direct-
ed me to call on Mr. Baulch, the consul for
that nation; by his interest I was admitted
into the Portuguese hospital, de la misere-
corde.

During the whole voyage I experienced
the utmost attention and kindness from the
captain and crew of the. Duke of Portland;

154 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

and when I quitted them, they did not leave
me unprovided for in a strange country;
they raised a subscription, amounting to fifty
dollars, which was paid into the hands of the
Portuguese agent on my account.

I remained in the hospital ten weeks ; the
Portuguese surgeons, although they could
not effect a cure, afforded me considerable
relief, and I was dismissed as well as I ever
expect to be.

I was now in a different situation from
what I had been either at Kodiak or the
Sandwich Islands; I was in a civilized coun-
try, in which I must earn my subsistence by
my own industry ; but, here, as well as there,
I was under the protection of Divine Provi-
dence, and, in all my misfortunes, I found
friends who were disposed to assist me.

Mr. Baulch, the American consul, gave
me a jar of the essence of spruce, which I
brewed into beer; and having hired a ne-
gro with a canoe, I went about the ships,
furnishing them with that, and other small
articles of refreshment.

While engaged in this employment, I
went on board the ship Otter, returning
from the South Seas, under the command of
Mr. Jobelin, whom J had seen in the same

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 15*

vessel at the Sandwich islands. He inform-
ed me that he had visited Wahoo a few
months after my departure, and found all
my friends in good health, except Isaac Da-
vis, who had departed this life after a short
illness.

In this manner I was not only enabled to
support myself, but even to save a little mo-
ney. I afterwards hired a house at the rent
of four milreas a month, and. set up a tavern
and boarding-house for sailors j this under-
taking not proving successful, I gave it up
for a butcher's stall, in which I was chiefly
employed in supplying the ships with fresh
meat. This business proved a very good
one, and I was sanguine in my hopes of being
able to raise a small sum; but an unfortu-
nate circumstance took place, which damp-
ed all my hopes, and reduced me again to a
state of poverty.

In the night of the 24th July my house
was broken into, and I was robbed of every
farthing I had, as well as of all my clothes.

As the purchase of carcasses required some
capital, I was under the necessity of giving
up my stall for the present. I again took
myself to my old trade of keeping a bum-

156 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

boat, till I had saved as much as enabled
me to set up the stall again.

I was much assisted by the good offices
of a gentleman from Edinburgh, of the name
of Lawrie, who resided in my neighbour-
hood; he took great interest in my welfare,
and was of essential service, by recommend-
ing me to ships, as well as by occasionally
advancing a little money to enable me to
purchase a carcass.

The state of my health, however, pre-
vented me from availing myself of the ad-
vantages of my situation; the sores in my
legs, although relieved, had never healed, and
gradually became so painful as to affect my
health, and render me unable to attend to
any business.

In consequence of this I determined to re-
turn home, in hopes of having the cure ef-
fectually performed in my native country.

On the 5th of February, 1812, I quitted
Rio Janeiro, after a stay of twenty-two
months. I came home in the brig Hazard,
Captain Anderson, and arrived in the Clyde
on the 21st of April, after an absence of
nearly six years.

APPENDIX.

VOCABULARY

OB* THE

LANGUAGE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

APPENDIX No. I.

VOCABULARY

or THE

v LANGUAGE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

In pronouncing the words as spelt in tbe vocabu-
lary, all the letters must be sounded, with the ex-
ceptions after mentioned.

In sounding the vowels, A has always the sound
of the initial and final letter in the word Arabia*
E, as in the word eloquence, or the final Y in

plenty.
The double E, as in keep.
I, as in the word indolence.
O, as in the word form*
The double O, as in boot, good.
U, as in the word but.
The diphthongs Ai, as the vowel sounds in tye,Jly,

or the I in diameter.
Ei, as in the word height,
Oi, as in the word oil.
Ow, as in the word cow*
All other combinations of vowels are to be sounded

separately ; thus, oe, you, and roa* distant, are

160

APPENDIX.

In sounding the consonants, H is always aspirated ;
the letters K and T, L and R, B and P, are fre-
quently substituted for each other*

Thus fcanafca, tanata, people ; ooroo, ooloo, bread-
fruit ; boa, poa, a hog.

Where the words are separated by a comma, they
are synonimous, and either may be used ; but
where there is no comma, both must be used.

Example. Taate, Keike tanne, a boy.

It frequently happens that the same word is repeat-
ed twice, in which case it is connected with a
hyphen ; thus, leepe4eepe } an axe.

Above

Aroona.

Adze

Toe.

Afraid

Macaoo.

After me, come

Mamooraaoo, peemai.

Afterwards

Mamoore.

Agreeable
American, an
Angry-
Apple
Arm, the

Namee-nawee.
Tanata, MeHkancu
Hoohoo.
Ahooa.
Poheva.

Arrow

Eeoome.

Ashore
At

Auooka.
Eia.

Avaricious ,
Aunt

Peepere.
Titooa waheine.

Axe

Leepe-leepe.

Back, the

Tooala.

Back, to carry on

Eoaha*

Bad

Eeno, heva, nooe-nooe
heva.

APPENDIX.

161

Bad man

Bald

Bamboo

Bark

Battle

Beard

Beat a drum, to

Bed

Bee

Beeg wax

Begone

Behind

Belly

Belch

Below.

Between

Bird

Biscuit

Bitter

Black

Bladder

Blind

Block, pulley

Blood

Board, or plank to swim

on
Board, on
Bone

Bonetta, a fish so called
Bottom
Bowl, wooden
Boy
Boy, a familiar way of

speaking
Bracelet of shells
Bread-fruit
Break, to
Breast

Kanaka poopoota.

Oopoboota.

Ohe.

Hohore.

Emutta.

Erokoo,

Moena.

Narro*

T>otai narro.

Heire peiro oe.

Temoore.

ManaoOy opoo.

Erooee.

Deerro.

Feropoo.

Mannoo*

Bikete.

Ava ava.

Ere-ere.

Toa meeme.

Muka pa.

Pockaka.

Toto.

Papa.

Aroona.

Oohe.

Pehe rera.

Okoree.

Apoina.

Taate, keike tannee.

Heimanne.
Teepo.

OoroOy ooloo.
Anaha.
Ooma

14*

162

Bring me
Broken
Brother
Brown

Bucket
Button

Buttons, string of
Buy, to

APPENDIX.

Peemau
Motoo.
Keike tanee.
Aoorauoora*
Tabahoo.
Opeehee, booboo.
Poreema.
Tooau

Cabbage

Calabash

Calm

Cannon

Canoe, single *

Canoe, double

Captain of a ship

Care, to take

Carry, to

Cat

Cheerful

Cheeks

Chief

Chest

Chicken

Child

Child-bearing

Clean

Cloak, or upper garment

Cloth, also clothes

Cloth-plant

Circumcision

Clock

Cockroach

Cocoa-nut

Cold

Tabete.

Areepo.

Mtmeeno,

Poo nooee.

Evaha.

Makarooa.

Eree te motoo*

Malamma.

Famo.

Popokee*

Warra-wurra.

Papareena.

Eree.

Pake*

Moa Una*

Keike, kumaree.

Heme te keike*

Ooama.

Teaboota, iapa.

Tapa.

Eaootee.

Poohe.

Moa tannee.

Patte-patte*

Caneeo.

Anoo.

APPENDIX

163

Come

Come here

Come with me

Contempt, a term of

Conversation

Cooked, or baked

Coyness in a woman

Cough, to

Country, the *

Country, foreign, gene-
rally applied to Bri-
tain

Cow

Crab

Crab, particular kinds of

Cray fish

Crimson

Cry, to, or weep.

Cured, it is

Cut, to

Here*

Here mau

Peemaiy taroo*

Poopoota poopooka.

Paraparoo.

Qomoaroa.

Nonoa.

Ehapoo.

Ayooca.

Caheite*
Peepfrnooe*
Pappee*

KpootoO) pehoo.
Pehe oora.
Oora oora*
Taee.
Oraroa*
Hakee-hakee.

Dance, to

Dark

Day

Day, to

Dead

Delicious

Demon, or devil

Dig, to

Dirt

Distant

Dive, to

Dog

Dolphin

Door

Ehoora-hoora
Pora rerem
Poo.

Aeea poa.
Maker oa.
Honnoo, onnoo.
Elooa htva.
Maiau
Total, erepo.
Roa, maroa.
Eehopoo-poo.
Rdea cao.
Oona.
Poola.

164 APPENDIX.

Done, or finished

Pooroa.

Drink, to

Aeeno.

Drunk

Honnoo.

Drum

Pahoo.

Duck

Mora.

Dusk, or twilight

Hoi-hoi te poa*

Dwell, to

Enoho.

Earth

Ehonooa.

Ears

Pepeaoo, tareea*

Eat, to

EeaL

Eels, or sea-snakes

Poohe.

Egg

Khoneero.

Egg, sea

Neeoolai.

England

Pritane, Kaheite.

Englishman

Kanaka Pritane, Ka-

naka Kaheite.

Enough

Maoona.

Enter, to

Marokonai.

Evening

Ahee-ahee.

European

Ehoorei.

Eyes

Maka.

Eyebrow

• Tooa maka.

Excrement

Tootau

False
Fan, a
Fan, to
Father
Fathom
Farewell
Fat
Fear

Waha ftc, heva*

Taheina.

Taharee.

Makooa tanne.

Anana.

Aroko-oe*

Peea.

Matao.

APPENDIX. 165

Feathers

Hooroo, hooroo manno.

Feather necklace

Araia.

Feeble

Faeera.

Feet

Wawye.

Female

Waheine.

Fetch hither

Heire mat, peemai.

Fin of a fish

Tirrapehe.

Fine

Eahe.

Fingers

Tereema*

Fish

Pehe.

a particular 1

rind of Ava.

Flying fish

Pehe orera.

Fish to

Ehootee.

Fist

Amotoo.

Flat

Papa*

Flea

Ookoo rere.

Flower, a

Pooa mono.

Fly, to

Arere.

Fly, a

Enarram

Forgot

Ooaro.

Fowl

Moa.

Fresh

Onoo.

Friend

Heitanne> poonarooa.

Fruit

Hooero.

Garment worn by the

women
Generous
Girdle

Girdle worn by the men
Girl
Give, to
Go
Goat
God

Paoo.

Horoa.

Tatooa.

Maro.

Keike waheina,

Mukunna.

Heire.

Peepe Kao.

Etooa.

166

APPENDIX.

Good

Meiteu

Grandfather

Toopoooa tonne.

Grandmother

Topooa Waheint.

Grass

Moo.

Grass, broad leaved, of

which lines and nets

are made

Oorana.

Grasshopper

Pepe rera.

Great

Nooenooe.

Green

Omamao.

Gun

Poo.

Hair

Law hoo.

Handkerchief

Haneeka

Hands

Reema.

Handsome

Meitei.

Harbour

Aeeva, too-too.

Hard

How*

Haste, make

Weete-weete.

Has, past time

Roa.

Hat

Paparee*

Have

Havee.

Head

Po.

He or she

Oera.

Hearing

Faro.

Heart

Ehottoo, teate :

Heat, or hot

M alumna.

Heat of the sun

Manna ke Lap.

Helmet

Mayoree.

Hen

Moa rvaheine.

Herb, used by

white

people for tea

Nehe.

Here

Mai.

Hermaphrodite

Makoo.

Hide, to

Ehoona.

APPENmX.

167

High
Hill
Hog

Hold your tongue
Hole

Hook for fishing
Hood made of ivory,
worn as an ornament
Horse
House

House (sleeping)
# House (eating)
How are you
Hungry
Husband

Roehee.
Parti.
Poa % boa.
Koore-koore ot.
Pooka.
Mat too.

* Palava.
Edea nooee.
Havre, eharee.
Harre> moe.
Harre eai.
Arohooe.
Porore. m
Tonne.

I, my, or me
Jacket

Interjection of grief
Interjection of admira-
tion
Iron
Island'
Itch, to

Waooy tawa.
Teakete.
Aroha eenoo*

Taa ha ha.
How.
Mot oo.
Mairo.

Keep

King
Knife

Know

Vaihee.

Papahee, matte-matte

makeroa.
Eree nooee.
Okee-okee, kaneerkanee*
Nono, eete.

Itt

APPENDIX.

Lame

O-opa.

Land

Ayooka.

Land cultivated

Aiena.

Laugh

Attaha.

Lean, not fat

AmapoOm

Legs

Watvye.

Let me see

Meene-meene y

finniMs*

Lie, to tell a

Poone 9 poone.

Light, not heavy

Eamrruu

Lightning

Oorvaira*

Lines

Towra.

Lips *

Jjthe-lehe.

L^Ie

Pekme.

Lizard

Moo.

Look

Meere-meere.

Dooking-glass

Anee-anee.

Loss

Moomooka.

Lost

Ooreiro.

Louse

Ookoo.

Male

Tanee,

Man

Tanata, tanee.

Man that eats with wo-

men

Tanata inoa.

Many

Maoona.

Married, to be

Noho it Waheina.

Marahmallow

Etooa rere.

Mat

Ahoo, moena.

Melon

Ipoopeena.

Mine, my own

Maooa, moo*

Month

Malama,

Moon

Maheintu

Moon, new

Maheina erimau

Moon, full

Maheina noote.

AFPENIMX. 1

Morrow, to

Apopo.

Morning .

Aheea pa*

Mother

Mafcooa waheine.

Mountain

■•*

r Pareijparei nooee.

Month

Waha.

Music

Heeva. .

Musket

Poo.

Mustard

Totai Kumaree.

Nail

•

How*

Naked

Tatarra.

Name

Einoa.

Native of the Islands

Kanaka womree.

Nasty

Ereporepo.

Navel

Petto.

Net

Oopaka.

Night, this

AheeapO) arere.

No, not

Aooree.

Nose

• -

Eehoo.

Nut, used to give

light

Tootooee.

» • •

Oar, or paddle

J7«.

Ocean

Tau

Te.

Old

Emoloo, baheeoe.

Otabeitan

Kanaka boolla-boolltu

Oven, or pit for cook-

• 9

ing

Eomoo.

1*1

Painting, printing, draw-
ing, or writing Purra-purra.

176 APPENDIX.

Palm of the hand

Anooreema.
makooa.

Parent

Pearl

Mumntee* *

Pearl-river

Wat mummee.

People

Kanaka, tanata.

Perhaps (affirmatively)

At pa.

— — (negatively)

Ooreepa.

P«

Poo.

Pigeon

Eroope.

Pinch, to

Ooma.

Place of worship

Morai.

Plank

Papa,

Plantain

Mjaio.

Plantation

Aina.

Play, to

Ehanne.

Pleasant

Natoee-namee.

Plenty

Jroo^aroo, Maoona.

Pluck, to

Hooteehootec.

Potatoes, sweet

Oowarra*

Prayer

Poore, anana.

Priest

Kdhoona.

Present, or gift

Makunna.

Presently

Artta, mamoorec.

Pressing with the hand

when tired

Rorome.

Prohibition

Taboo*

Puncturation

Tattoo.

Putrid

Peea-peea.

Quickly

•

Wteteweete.

Rain

Eooa.

Rat

Eoree.

APPENDIX.

171

Red

Remember, to

Ringworm, a disease

Ripe

Ropes

Rotten

Row, to

Rum

Rushes

Russian

Oora-oora*

JVo-no.

Enooa.

Purra.

Toura.

Purra roa.

Ehoe.

Lummee.

Anonoho.

Tanata Lookeene.

Bailor

Salt

Salute, by joining noses

Satisfied

Saw, a

Scissars

Sea

Sea-snake

Sea-egg

See, to

Shark

Sheep

Show me

Ship

Shoot, to

Shore

Shortly

Shut

Sickness, or sore

Bit, to, or squat

Sky

Sleep

Kanaka hanna-hanna u

motoo.
Pakau
Hone-hone*
Maoona.
Pake oroo*
Oopa.

Tat, wax tau
Poohe,
Keeootau
Meene-meene.
Manno.
Peepe.

Meere-meere.
Motoo.
M acker oa.
Ayookee,
Mamooree*
Oopa.

Mai, Poonine.
' Noho*
Heiraneu
Moe-moe.

lift

APPENDIX.

Small

Soldier

Song

Spade, wooden

Speak, to

Speech or harangue

Spear

Spit, to

Spread, to

Star

Stay, wait a little

Steal, to

Stink

Stocking!

Stone

Stool, to lay the head on

when asleep
Storm
Stranger
Stop

Sugar-cane
San

Surf of the sea
Surgeon .
Sweet
Swim

Ete.

Kanaka etooa.

Heeva*

Maiau

JVutmnee-nummee.

Oraro.

PahoOj pake.

Too harre.

Hohorcu

Ehttoo.

Arteam

Ei hooee,

Peero-peero*

Tookevnt*

Pohakoo keeva.

Papa rooa*
Teeoo teoom
Tanata howfee.
Murrta.
To,ko.
Laoo.
Horoo tau
Jiai.

Lea-lea, onno*
Eaoo.

Tallow

Oifo.

Take, to

JLaiva^ ooleva.

Take off, to

Hemo.

Take care

Malamma.

Tall

Hoa

Taro pudding

Poe.

Teeth

Jfeehoo.

Tefl

Eetee, nwntnee-nummee.

APPENDIX.

173

That

The

Thief

Think, to

This

Tongue

Twins

Twisting, in dancing

Mao.

Te 9 he, &«•

Tanata ihooee.

No-no*

Ana, Aheea.

Alaloo.

Teetee.

Amee-amee*

• %

Very

Uncle
Understand
Understanding
Undress, to

Noote*nooee 9

Titoaa tannee,
Eetee.
•Afono.
Hemo tapa.

Warm

Water

Water (fresh)

Water (salt)

Water, to make

Weak

Wet • *

What

What is your name

Where

White

White, people

Mahanna.

Wax.

Wax onnoo*

Wax tax.

Meeme*

Faeera*

Taooa*

Purra.

Ehara.

Owhyt o* einoa+

Awaya-.

Keeo kttOm

Tanata howree*

15*

174

APPENDIX;

Why

Tehala.

Wind

Matarue.

Wish

Muktt-rrwktt.

Within

. Marokoo.

With me

Ta wa*

Woman

Waheinc.

Woman (married)

Wahcine mow*

Won't I

Aoohee.

Wood

Todheihe.

Work, to

Hanna-harma.

Wounded

Tooitaht.

Wrong, yotrm

fVaha haU

Yam

Oohet.

Yawn

Poow/uu

Year

Mabaheite* .

Yellow

Ortna.

Yes

You

Oe.

Your

Kow.

NUMERALS.

One

Aiahtt.

Two

Aroocu

Three

AkoraOm

Four

Ahaa. ♦

Five

Areema*

Six

Ahonoo*

Seven

AkeitoQm

Eight *

Awarroo*

Nine

I vet.

Ten

Oome*

Eleven

Oome toome atahtu

Twelye

Oome toome arooa.

•

APPENDIX.

Thirteen

Oome toome akoroo.

Fourteen

Oome toome ahaa.

Fifteen

Oome toome areema.

Sixteen

Oome toome ahonoo.

Seventeen

Oome toome aheitoo.

Eighteen

Oome toome amaroo.

Nineteen

Oome toome ivee.

Twenty

Kanna roa*

Thirty

Karma koroo.

Forty

Atahee kannaha.

Eighty

Arooa Kannaha*

Set. &c.

1600 or 40 X

40 Ataha manno.

3200

Aroka manno, &£.

DIALOGUES.

Where are you going
I am going on board

the ship
I am going ashore
I with you to go

Very well, can you go

with me
No, the captain will not

let me go

There will be no work
• on board to-morrow

Yery well, will you go

to-morrow
I cannot tell
Where is the king
He >;. gone on board

the ship

Awaya heire oe.

Heire waoo . aroona te

motoo.
Heire waoo ayooka.
Mukee-mukee heire wa*

oo.

Meite^heireoe tawa.

Ooree pa, eree to motoo
ooree mukee-mukee wa-
oo heire.

Apopo taboo, ooree turn*
na-hanna aroona te
motoo.

Meite, heire oe apopo.
Ooree pa eetee waoo.
Awaya te eree nooee.
Heire roo arrona te mo*
too.

Iff

APPENDIX.

Has he taken any hogs
onboard

No; but he will take
plenty when he goes
ashore

The captain wishes to
purchase a great ma-
ny hogs

The ship sails to-mor-
row

Where is she bound to

She is bound for Eng-
land

Will you go ashore, and
sleep at my house

1 will see in a little

Come hither. Go on
shore, and tell the
king that the captain
wisnes to purchase a
great many pearls

I will go soon

Mind that you remem-
ber

Do you know where the
king is

He is gone to the Mo*
rai

William Stevenson,
literally Lean Wil-
liam

John Young

Isaac Davis

John Hairbottle,
literally Lame John

William Wordsworth,
literally Hardbottom

Oolava pom afoma It

motoo.
Oortt, mamooree ptemai

ayooka lave*

noote it poa*
Erte it motoo

muket iooai noo&U

poa.

Apope htirt it motoo*

Htirt away a*

Htirt Kahtitt, or Htirt

Pritant*
Htirt ot it yooka moe*

mot it harrt waoo.
Mamoortti meente-rntent

waoo.
Ptemai o«, htirt ayooka

numme-numme tt eret

noottt tret it motoo

muktt tooai maoontt it

mummet.
Mamooree htint waoo.

Malamma kow no-no.
Eettt oe awaya it ere*

nooee.
Oohtirt marokoo it Ma-

rai. '

Willama Amapoo*

Athanna.

Itsttkt.

Ktont o-opa.
Willama Okoru how*

APPENDIX, 179

James Slow,
li terally James Large
Brow Kterm Laoo Note.

James Beatty,
literally The Block-
maker Ketme Hanna Pockakt*

The Author's name;
literally Loss of the
Feet Moomooka ft Wcmyu*

APPENDIX No. II.

STATEMENT

OF THE

CASE OF ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL.

Dr. NORDGOORST,
In the lerfiM of the Banian America* Company.

Translated from the Russian.

STATEMENT

OF THE

CASE OF ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL.

The bearer hereof, named Archibald Macbrait,
has had the misfortune to have both of his feet
frost-bitten in so dreadful a manner that nothing re*
mained but to endeavour to save his life, as there
were no hopes whatever of preserving his feet,
although every attempt was made to that effect.

. For the information of the humane and benevo-
lent, I subjoin a short statement of my proceedings
in his case, fearless of any compunctions of con*
science ; being sensible of the hard fate of this
poor fellow- creature, and how much he stands in
need of assistance to support his existence*

This Englishman sailed from Eodiak in the win-
ter time, in the ship's cutter, for the island of San-
nack. On their passage a storm came on, in which
the boat was wrecked. The crew saved their

182 APPJ^DIX.

lives on shore ; but this man had both his feet fro-

zen; and not having stripped off bis' clothes for
twenty-seven days, he*was not aware of the extent
of his calamity, and did not apprehend the destruc-
tion of his feet.

The overseer of the district of Earlutzki brought
him to Kodiak, at eight o'clock in the evening, to
the hospital called the Chief District College of
Counsellor and Chevalier Baranoff.

In the first place, I had his feet cleaned and
dried;. .they were both in a state of mortification
(gangrena sicca.) The mortified parts having
separated from the sound to the distance of a fin-
ger's-breadth, where either amputation might take
place, or a cure be performed, as the patient him^
self hoped* I dressed the mortified, or frost-bitten
parts, with oil of turpentine, and the unaffected
parts with olive oil, and continued these* applica-
tions for about five days, after which I used char-
coal, gas, and other chemical applications ; but as
there appeared no chance of saving his feet, I be-
gan to consider that there was no resource left but
' amputation. That the patient might not be alarm-
ed, I talked over the matter with biro, as is usual
!h such cases, and endeavoured to perluade him to
submit to the operation, as the only means of ef-
fecting a cure* But at first i was not .successful,
and could not get him to agree to 1 it* I was, there-
fore, obliged to continue my former mode of treat-
ment At the«nd of three days, however, he gave
bis consent, and I fixed a time for the operations,

APPENDIX. 183

which I performed satisfactorily. On the third
day after the operation, the wound appeared to be
in a good state, and I continued to dress it daily as
it required.

The' other foot remained to undergo a similar
operation. 1 suffered three weeks to elapse when
it also took place. The wounds are now in a good
state, and evidently healing up.

It is not in my power to complete the cure, be-
ing obliged to return to Russia ; but I have left
directions with the assistant-surgeon how to pro-
• ceed in the treatment;

The illness of Archibald M acbrait, this English-
man, commenced on the 2 2d of January, 1808.
The first operation took place on the 15th of
March, and the second on the 1 5th of April* He
is twenty years of age, and well made. He was
cured by Dr. Nordgoorst, actually in the service
of the Russian American Company.

This statement should support the petition of
this Englishman, who may seek an assylum in
Greenwich Hospital, where the unfortunate of this
kind obtain relief and comfort.

N. B. This is an accurate description of the
case and treatment; but the true christian name
and surname of the patient, is Archibald Camp-
bell.*

* The postscript was added in Latin, at the request of
the author, when the surgeon read the case to him, Ar-
chibald Macbride being the name he assumed when he
entered the American ship. Fide j). 17.

APPENDIX, No. III.

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT

THE SANDWICH ISLAND&

16*

, M

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

When Captain Cook discovered .the Sandwich
Islands, in 1778, Tereoboo was king of Owhyhee ;
Titeree, of Moratai ; and Pereoranne, of Wahoo,
and the islands to leeward. .The sovereignty of
Mowee was contested by Tereoboo and Titeree ;
the former claimed it for his son, who had married
the daughter of the deceased king ; the latter claim-
ed it as heir male to the former sovereign* In con-
sequence of this dispute, these chiefs were engaged
in war at the above-mentioned period ; but Captain
King understood, before he quitted the islands, thai
an arrangement had taken place, by which Titeree
retained Ranai Taharoora, whilst Mowee was ceded
to Tewarro, the son of Tereoboo. Tamaahmaah,
the present king, is known in Cook's Voyage by
the name of Maiha-Maiha, and was present at th*

18ft

APPENDIX.

death of that illustrious navigator. He was the eld-
eat boo of Kaihooa, only brother to Tereoboo, and
after his son, Tewarro next heir to the succession*
After the departure of the Resolution and Disco-
'very, no ships touched at the Sandwich Islands
till the year 1787. During the interval that bad
elapsed, considerable revolutions bad taken place.
Tereoboo was dead, and his dominions shared be*

tween his sons, Tewarto and Tamaafatnaah ; ai|d

Titeree had conquered the islands of Mowee and -
Wahoo.

The accounts of these transactions, owing to the
few opportunities of inquiry which the navigators
who touched at. these islands enjoyed, and their
igporance of the language, are extremely contradic-
tory.

By one account, Tereoboo is said to have beefc
put to death by Tamaahmaah | by another, tbat bo
fell in battle ; and by a third, that he died a natural
death. The causes of the division of his territory
between his son and nephew are involved in equal
obscurity.

The ship Iphigenia, commanded by Captain
Douglas, arrived at Owhyhee, b 1788, being' the
first which touched at that island after the death of
Captain Cook. There was on board of her a chief,
of Atooi, named Tianna, who had the preceding
year accompanied Captain Meares to Canton, an£
had been enriched, by the kindness of his English
friends, whh a valuable assortment of European tit*
tides, arms, and ammunition.

Appendix. iss

Tianna was a man of great activity and ambition,
and a distinguished warrior. These qualities, and
his wealth, particularly in fire-arms, rendered him
an acquisition of much Consequence to an enter-
prising chief like Tamaahmaah ; and he induced
him to settle upon Owhyhee, by conferriag upon
faim high rank and extensive tracts of land.

Captain Douglas had with him a small tender,

built upon the northwest coast of America. When
Tamaahmaah learned this, the idea of'having a si-
milar one built immediately occurred to him ; and
he pressed that gentleman with so much urgency
to allow him the assistance of his carpenter, that he
was obliged to give a conditional promise. Al-
though the promise was never fulfilled! Tamaah-
maah did not abandon the project ;~and soon after*
^rards he prevailed upon an Englishman of the name
of Boyd, who had been bred a ship-carpenter, to
undertake the construction of a vessel*

About the same time, two other Englismen, nam-
ed Young and Davis, of whom some account is
given in the work, became resident upon Owhyhee,
and with their assistance he determined to build a
vessel. Fortunately for the attainment of this ob-
ject, Captain Vancouver arrived, and with the aid^
of his carpenters, he was enabled to accomplish his
favourite object, by the completion of his first deck-
ed vessel, the Britannia.

It ought to be mentioned, to his honour, that-
whilst thus anxious to lay the foundation of a navy,
be had io his possession a small schooner, which

190 APPENDIX.

had been seized by a chief, called Tamahmotoo,
and which lie had carefully preserved, id the hope*
of restoring to her qwners.

In 1791 he attacked Titeree, and conqured thf
islands of Mowee, Morotai, and Rabat. Whilst en-
gaged in this expedition, be received information
that his own dominions were attacked by Tewarro,*
and he was, in consequence, obliged to abandon his
conquest, and return*

By the energy of his operations he soon vanquish-
ed his opponent, who was slain by Tianna, and the
whole island of Owhyhee was reduced under his
dominion* In the mean time, Titeree, availing
himself of his absence, recovered the islands he
had lost*

Affairs were in this situation when Vancouver
arrived, in March, 1792. He found the islands
in a most wretched state, from the long wars that
had taken place ; and he endeavoured, but without
effect, to establish a peace between Titeree and
Tamaahmaah.

Tamaabmaah was so sensible of the advantages
which would result from a closer connexion with
a civilized power, that he made a formal surrender
of the sovereignty of the island to the king of, Great
Britain, with the reservation, that there should be
no interference in their religion, internal govern-
ment, or domestic economy.

* It is not easy to ascertain the name, or even the iden-
tity of this chief, called by Captain King Tewarro; by
Vancouver, Teamawheera ; and by ILisiansky, Kiava.

APPENDIX. 191

Soon after the departure of Captain Vancou-
ver, Titeree died, leaving the island of Waboo
to his son Tritoboorie, and Mowee to bis son Kor-
koranee.

A dispute arose between Tritoboorie and his
uncle Tahaio, king of Afooi, who laid claim to' Wa-
boo; but Tritoboorie, supported by Mr. Brown,
andtfae crew of the ship Butterworth, not only re-
pelled Tahaio, but even invaded Atooi.

Tamaahmaah, availing himself of these dissentions,
invaded and conquered Mowee, Morotai, and Ra-
nai. Next year, 1795, be invaded Wahoo with
one detachment of his force, leaving Tianna to fol-
low bim with the other. Whilst waiting the ar-
rival of that chief, he received the unexpected in-
telligence that he bad gone over to the enemy ;
while, at the same time, an insurrection broke out
in Owbyhee, headed by Nomatafaa, brother to Ti-
anna. Instead of being overwhelmed by this un-
expected intelligence, he took the resolution of in-
stantly attacking his enemies. The war was de-
cided by a sanguinary battle, fought near the vil-
lage of Why teete, in which Tamaahmaah was com-
pletely victorious.

Toung and Davis accompanied him upon this
expedition, and were of essential service to him
from their knowledge of fire-arms.

Tianna lost his life in. the battle, while the sons
of Titeree found refuge in Atooi. Tamaahmaah
immediately returned to Owbyhee, and soon quelled
the insurrection in that island.

192 APPENDIX.

He remained- there about a twelvemonth ; but
either with a view of consolidating the conquests
he had already made, or of extending them farther,
he proceeded to Laheina, in Mowee, where be re-
sided a few years, and afterwards removed *<* Wa-
boo, where he was during the whole time of our
author's stay, in 1809, and 1810.

Of the history of Atooi and Onehow, the only
islands in the group independent af Tpmaahmaab,
little is known with certainty. Captain King says,
that, io 1779, they were governed by the grand-
sons of Porioranne, king of Wahoo. It is probable*
that upon the conquest of that island by Titeree,
they were also conquered ; for it appears, that Ta-
haio, or Taio, brother of that chief, was king of
these islands, when Captain Vancouver visited
them in 1 798. He was succeeded by his son Ta-
moree, or Comaree, who was king of these islands
in 1810.

APPENDIX, No. IV.

NOTES.

y*i

NOTES.

NoteA+p. 13.

The author kept a Journal in the early part of
the voyage ; but it was lost in the events which N
succeeded, and he was afterwards placed in circum-
stances where it was not in his power to keep one.
He has in his possession, however, several docu-
ments which serve to ascertain many of the dates.
These are,

1st. His letters to his mother, written whenever
an opportunity presented itself, and which she pre-
served.

2d. A certificate from the East-India Company
of the time when he quitted their service.

3d. The statement of his case by the Russian
surgeon, a translation of which will be found in the
Appendix, No. II.

The other dates are given from memory, and are .
either such as -a sailor would naturally remember,
or circumstances of so remarkable & nature that

196 APPENDIX.

they could not fail of fixing themselves in a meibory
much less retentive than that of oar author*

Whenever the editor has had it in his power to
verify them by collateral authorities, he has not foiled
to do so ; and the result of the inquiry has bfoeo,
even where corrections were necessary, to show
the general accuracy of the narrative ; For example,
his written account of the first part of the voyage
is literally, u The convoy sailed from the Mother-
bank, on 12th May, 1806, and cleared the Channel
on the 18th; was twelve weeks on our passage to
the Cape of Good Hope ; lay at the Cape fourteen
or fifteen days ; sailed from the Cape about the 19tfa
August, and on the 19th September made the bland
of Sf, Paul's; arrived at Pulo Fenang about the
middle of October, and sailed on the 24ffa Novem-
ber ; left Admiral Trowbridge's flag-ship, the Blen-
heim; arrived at China the 18th January, 1807."

He added, that the convoy .left the Cape upon a
Friday, and on the three following Saturdays they
had each day a gale of wind ; that on the third of
these Saturdays they passed St. Paul's.

Some difficulties arose, however; for, upon con-
sulting the Almanack, the Editor found that the
1 9th August, 1 806, was not a Friday, but a Tuesday.
Upon asking the reason of his fixing on these par*
ticular dates, he showed a letter to bis mother, dated
Portsmouth, 11th May, saying, the fleet was to sail
next day ; from whence he concluded the. convoy
'sailed on the. 12th; and counting twelve weeks,
would fix their arrival at the Cape on Monday, the

APPENDIX. 197

4th of August; and fifteen days would make Tues-
day, the 19th, as the day they left it.

Upon consulting tha newspapers of the time, it
appears that the fleet did not sail till the 14th of
May, and arrived at the Cape on the fth of August,
feeing just twelve weeks and one day ; and fifteen
days more fixes the day of sailing on Friday, the
S2d» The editor has not discovered whether the
other dates in this part of the voyage are correct to
a day ; but the author says, that the loading of the
ships was stopped about six weeks after their arri-
val, in consequence of the dispute with the Chi-
nese* Counting six weeks after the 1 8th of Janua-
ry, would fix it about the 1st of March. By the
accounts from Canton, in Note B., it appears, that
this actually took place upon the 4th ; which ren-
ders it probable that the date is correct, or at least
pretty nearly so.

In addition to these original documents, the Ed-
itor has in his possession a number of accounts, in
the Author's hand, of particular parts of the voyage,
and the printed account, of his adventures, in metre,
referred to in the Preface.

Immediately after his return, in 1812, a gentle-
man in Paisley undertook to get an account of bis
adventures published, provided he drew it up him-
self. He accordingly made some preparations;
but the death of the gentleman prevented the pub-
lication.

The Vocabulary was written by the Author as
he recollected the words, and transmitted to the

17*

198 APPENDIX.

Editor, who arranged them, and afterward* read
them over to him, correcting the spelling from his
pronunciation, according to the rules wbUJr are
prefixed to it.

Note B. p. 15.

DISPUTE WITH THE CHINESE AT
CANTON, IN 1807.

Extract from the Morning Chronicle, 26/fc An-

gusty 1807,

" Canton, March 4. — The English Company
are involved in considerable trouble, in consequence
of some one of the crew of their ship Neptune
having killed a Chinese, for whose life this govern-
ment have required one of the crew to be deliver-
ed up, which has been positively refused. This
refusal has produced the stoppage of all the chops
for that ship ; and Mouqua, (second of the Hong,)
by whom she is secured, has been, with the linguist
for the ship, carried in chains inside of the cify.
I have Conversed with Cheongqua- and Consee-
qua, who have assured me no inconvenience will
attend th£ Americans ; but they assert positively
a man must be given up.

APPENDIX. !*•

" The sailors have behaved most infamously :
They baled down, and danced on, the Spanish flag,
and then destroyed it. Their captains apologized,
find next day compelled them to hoist a new one*
Some few of the scoundrels showed a disposition to
pull down the American colours; and a part of
them were in the act of lowering the Swedish, but
were prevented. They have burnt one of the
mandarin's houses in front of the factories. This
shameful conduct has induced the Chinese to de-
termine, that no more sailors shall be permitted to
come up on liberty* It is generally thought the
English business, except the country, will all be
stopped in a day or two. The English, includ-
ing the Lion man-of-war, at JBocca Tigris, amount
to 1600 men. A few days will decide the unfortu-
nate business."

«* March, 6. — We are every hour afraid of a
rupture between the English and the Chinese, in con-
sequence of the death of a Chinese, from the acci-
dental strbke of a club by an English sailor.

" The Chinese demanded an Englishman to die,
conformable to the laws of their country ; and the
English have refused, being unable to find out the
person who gave the blow. In consequence, the
viceroy of this province gave orders yesterday to
stop their trade ; and in all probability the next
step will be to intercept their supplies, and seize
on some person of the factory ; a circumstance
which must produce the most serious consequen-
ces.**

h*> APPENDIX

" 1 understand the English bare no objection to
give op a man, provided they could find out. the
guilty person ; and surely they cannot be blamed
for spurning the idea of makiog an innocent man
■offer. Ood only knows bow it will end. They
are allowed three days more to decide ; and if they
do not comply, it is thought the Chinese will ear
/ deavour to compel them. Should they be foolish
enough to attempt the latter plan, I think they will
get a sound drubbing, as the English have now a
force at Wampooa and Bocca Tigris of 2000 able-
bodied men, all eager for attack."

Morning Chronicle, December 4.

Extract of a Letter from a Gentleman lately
resident in China, dated Canton, April 18.

" The affair between the English Company and
the Chinese is at length adjusted. After many
meetings, chin chinnings, &c. &c. the Chinese go-
vernment ordered up for trial the fifty-two sailors
belonging to the Neptune, that were on liberty
when the fray happened. This order was com-
plied with on the part of the Company ; and about
the 25th of March the sailors arrived in Canton,
under the protection of a company of marines from
the Lion ship of war. After they had reached
Canton, the mandarins intimated, that they must be
taken inside the city for examination. This was
resolutely opposed ; and it was finally agreed, that

APPENDIX. *>1

the trial should be held in the Company's old fac-
tory, the lower part of which was accordingly fit-
ted up in great style, with yellow and crimson silk
carpets, cushions, tables, chairs, &c. See. the whole
intended to represent the emperor's court. The
tasiness now appeared favourable, but was soon
shaded by another serious occurrence* The man-
darin who was to sit in awful judgment, required
that the chief of the Company, the captain of the
Lion, and the commodore of the Company's ships,
should not be permitted to sit in his presence du-
ring the trial. This was not acceded to, and threats
were uttered on the part of the British. The man-
darin was equally obstinate, and the business as-
sumed a very serious aspect. As the mandarin
could not come himself, or send one of high or-
der, be sent one who was willing that the British
should sit at their ease in good elbow chairs* Thus
arranged, about the 6th instant the trial commenced;
and of fifty-two sailors, eleven were selected as the
most guilty, and laid over for farther proof. On the
9th, the eleven were again brought up for trial, and
two were selected as the guilty persons, who were
again laid over for farther investigation. On the
11th, the two were again brought forward, and one
of them adjudged guilty, and ordered to be kept in
possession of the Company, till the pleasure of the
Emperor should be known. The British ships are
now loading, and will sail in about a fortnight. What
fate awaits the sailor retained is uncertain; but it
is probable, that the mandarin would rather touch a

Mi APPENDIX.

few of the security merchants' dollars, and keep the
affair from the Emperor, than retaliate the outrage
against their countrymen. In this case, not lean
than one hundred thousand dollara will ne necessary
to.patch up the affair."

In the appendix to Sir George Staunton's ac-
count of the Penal Code of China, there is a de-
railed statement of the proceedings of the Chines*
court in this case. The editor has had no opportu-
nity of seeing the Work ; but the following abstract,
taken from the Quarterly Review, Vol* 111. p. 315,
will show how the cause terminated.

" The British factory was fitted up as a court of
justice; the great officers of state and the. judges
« attended; and the result was, the singling out of
eleven men, as having been the most active in the
affray* On a re-examination of these men, tljey
endeavoured to prevail on some one to plead guilty,
under an implied promise that he should not be
punished. This failing, it was suggested that the
affair might be got over, if the officers of the Nep-
tune would depose that tbey had seen a sailor car*
rying a bamboo stick oyer his shoulder, against
which, in the hurry and confusion, a Chinese had
accidentally run his head. The proposal of so ri-
diculous and pitiful expedient met with the con-
tempt it deserved. The next suggestion was, that
some one of the sailors should be prevailed On to
state, that finding an attempt made on bis pocket,
he had struck behind hico, and might thus have
wounded the deceased* This expedient meeting
with no better success, they proceeded in their ex-

APPENDIX. 203

aminstion, and dismissed all except tiro, Julius
Caasar, and Edward Sheen. It appeared that
Julias Caesar had a small case in his hand on the
day of the riot, but was not outside of the factory ;
and that Edward Sheen was on the outside of the
factory, but did not carry a stick ; he confessed,
however, that he had a Chinese tobacco pipe in his
hand, the tube of which was of bamboo, the court,
therefore, decided that he carried a stick, and, con-
sequently, that he was the culprit. Haying got
thus far over the ground, a long negotiation took
place as to the disposal of Edward Sheen, until the
final decision of the case should be received from
Pekin ; and it was at length agreed that he should
be left behind in charge of the supercargoes*

" Having thus briefly stated the leading facts,
we shall now see in what manner the case was re-
presented to the supreme court at Pekin, and its
decision thereupon. ♦ It is contained at fuU length
in No. II. of the appendix, p. 521.

" The Viceroy of Canton states, for the infor-
mation of the Supreme Court, that Edward Sheen,
an Englishman, being in an upper story of a ware-
house which overlooked the street, and in which
there was a window opening with wooden shut-
ters, did, on the 18th day of the first moon, em-
ploy a wooden stick, in an oblique direction, to
keep open the shutter, and that, in doing this, the
wooden stick slipped and fell downwards; that
Leao-a-teng, a Chinese, passing at the moment,
was struck and wounded by the falling of the said
•tick upon his left temple, and that on* the evening

20* APPENDIX.

of the following day be died io consequence of the
wound. That repeated orders had been given to
the chief of the English factory to deliver op the
man to justice ; that, in reply, it was alleged the
said criminal was sick of an ague and fever, and un-
der medical treatment ; that, on his recovery /ibe
was confronted with the relations of the deceased ;
that, after repeated examinations, the said criminal,
Edward Sheen, had acknowledged the truth of all
the facts here stated, without reservation; that he
had, consequently, been proved guilty of accidental
homicide, and ought, therefore, to be sentenced to
pay the usual fine, to redeem himself from the
punishment of death by strangulation.

" Upon this report the Supreme Court observes,
that the case appears to be one of those acts, of the
consequences of which, neither sight, hearing, or
reflection, could have given a previous warning;
that the said Edward Sheen should, therefore, be
allowed to redeem himself from the punishment of
death by strangulation, by the payment of a fine
(amounting to about 4l. 3*. sterling) to the relations
of the deceased, to defray the expenses of burial,
and then be dismissed to be governed id an orderly
manner in his own country. 9 '

It appears that the bribe necessary to procure
acquiescence of the. parties interested to this
mockery of justice, did not cost the security mer-
chants less than 50,000/.

^Ji^^y+r-T^

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